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I have a 12 + yr old whole house attic fan requiring a motor replacement: L.L Building Products Model D0832B3081 9 + yr old whole house attic fan requiring a motor replacement. 12 volt, 60hz, 4.5amp, 900rpm, 1/4 hp. Thermally protected l, E62862 capacitor-10 MFD/330 VAC, com white, high-black, low red. Can you assist.

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  • dan turkstra
    dan turkstra Nov 07, 2010

    What is it you need help with finding a motor ? If so look up Granger supply I can promise you they will be able to match one up . Hope this helps

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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AlmostBob
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SOURCE: Replacing Heater Element in Roper Dryer

before you replace the heater most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out. (also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names) These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this 641e982.jpg or like this dd7fd44.jpg with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: wiring diagram?

They ain't power leads. They carry heat element current from the cent sw when the motor is running.

Posted on Jan 10, 2009

jumptrout51
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating

The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."

  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 12 yr old dryer, model lgr 5636 eq2, it

could be the element or the fuse on the element box. Check also to be sure there is 220 volts entering the dryer with an ohmmeter...

Posted on Jan 17, 2011

  • 207 Answers

SOURCE: I have a magnatek, 115v.

Just wire up the black wire and cap the others. This will allow the motor to run on high at all times. You have a variable speed motot. Tie the white wire to your commom and the black wire to your source.

Posted on Jul 01, 2011

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