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Hi, got a fault with my HSA6400 Premium alarm panel that wont clear, the amber LED indication is illuminated the fault is displayed as ?panel telephone line fail?. The phone line into the panel has been proven sound as it works when plugged into a standard telephone. This is the only fault displayed within the fault log, but when attempting to accept /reset the fault it will not clear. The fault is also restricting arming the alarm; it will only arm when in force alarm mode. Any advice will be greatly received, many thanks Andy..

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 Subaru Outback security code won't stop flashing !

im a service manager at a Subaru dealer. The security system is in valet mode. Open the drivers door, with the drivers door open hold the small unlock button on the remote and keep holding it until the light stops flashing.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: Viper alarm, lights dont flash

Sounds to me like the parking light output wire. They usually have a seperate fuse or the connection is bad. The connection on your vehicle should be behind the pass side kick panel and look for a wire to the white/purple wire and check that with a meter or light to see if it's kick out power. There is a possibility they used the negative trigger through a resister and that would be located behind the headlight switch. That will at least let you know and trace down the problem. Here is a link with that parking light info for yours. Hope this helps and let me know if you have more questions.

http://64.85.6.121/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=17258&MakeID=16

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: uniden vs1100xr car alarm will

I had the same problem with my vs1100xr. The remotes for these (and other) unidens have a rolling code. Seems to me that either the remote runs out of new codes and cycles back to the beginning, or the alarm base unit somehow loses track of the codes. Either way, the alarm base unit stops accepting the codes of your remote, and so needs to be purged of its code tracking memory - reset, if you like. This is essentially the procedure for training the alarm base unit to recognise new remote (and forgetting old remotes).
This procedure is:-
1) Disarm alarm, or if in valet mode, take it out of valet mode (push valet button 3 times)
2) Turn the ignition on and off 2 times within 15 seconds.
3) Put the alarm into valet mode (push valet button 3 times) within 15 seconds of completing step 2. Alarm should beep, and remote training has started.
4) Within 15 seconds of completing step 3, push the button (#1) of the first remote you wish to use for the alarm. Alarm should beep, indicating acceptance of remote. Repeat for other remotes you wish to use - up to 4 in total. (Once the first remote has been accepted, you have all the time in the world to make the alarm learn other remotes)
5) Turn ignition on and off to end remote learning mode. Alarm should beep 2 times. New remotes have now been learned and previous remotes forgotten.

Some of these details may vary from country to country - who knows. If this doesn't work, I suggest that you contact Uniden in your country to obtain the procedure. Took me a few tries to get the timing right, what with the valet button hard to get at and having only 15 seconds between steps.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: danby DDW396W-2

I have had a similar problem numerous times, a couple of which required manoeuvreing it into a place I could work on it, and a laborious removal of the covers. Each time, up until this current incident, the solution that worked, at least temporarily, was quite simple. The recurrent problem was at least consistent: every 6-8 months I would find that the pump would work but the spray arm was not moving. The solutions always seemed to be something different: once all I needed to do was to prime the pump, other times it seemed like calcium and lime build-up was clogging up the parts so a little C.L.R. got me on my way.

This most current incident was more baffling, as my standard solutions did not work. However, I think I finally got to the root of the problem.

Look inside the dish compartment, to the right, near the top. There are two little nubby holes. Their function is to allow air to enter/exit either the spray arm pump tubing or the water filling tubing. Remove the one zillion screws from the cover to access the innards. Pull off the tubing and unscrew the washer (it will be tight due to the sealant on it). Upon inspection, I found that the air hole for the spray arm pump was clogged with food residue. A tiny screwdriver will clear things out nicely - you should be able to see through it. If you clear it out a little but, but still can't see through it, then I presume you're just going to have the same problem back again.

It is important that this be clear so that the water can displace the air while filling is occurring and allow for good suction. Actually, it looked like a manufacturing flaw - there was still some residual plastic from the original molding on the inside, and food was getting caught on it.

Good luck.

Posted on May 26, 2009

krb55
  • 604 Answers

SOURCE: hi i have a bosh

I believe that this system utilizes your power line as it signal path (for arming etc). the problem is your are getting voltage spikes during the night (most likley all the time). the only way to eliminate these spikes is to use a power line conditioner, however if you do you may not be able to arm your system with the remote control (as the power conditioner may isoltate your device from the line, (needed for communications). if you can find a line conditioner that ony filters voltage spikes and not an isolation type unit, your remotes may still work. You can arm the unit at the control box however. good luck

Posted on Mar 22, 2011

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Hope this helps?

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I googled it but all i came up was people with a flashing light and mine was solid so i figured id askk!!!! but i think i figured it out i took the sub out and pulled the box terminals and tightened them cause i noticed they were loose and viola it worked.


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