Dosent heat up element tests good - Kenmore 63942 Dryer

heating elements are resistors that get hot
one end will have 115 volts but the other end should be considerable less because the resistance of the heating element drops the voltage
if you used a ohm meter you should be reading a resistance of 500-1000 ohms for a good heater element but with your readings , there will be no resistance so the element is faulty

Copy following link for 3-step testing if element is good:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1)Locate the upper heating element in the top access. The heating element is above the thermostat, and all you will see is a round disc with two wires attaching to the disk.

2)Set your ohm meter to the X1 or RX 1 scale to measure the continuity of the heating element. Touch each of the ohm meter probes to each of the terminal screws on the heating element. A positive reading indicates a good element. If there is no reading, the element is faulty.

3)Test for a possible short in the heating element with the ohm meter. Touch one ohm meter probe to one of the heating element terminals. Touch the other ohm meter probe to the bracket that secures the heating element. If you get a reading of zero, the element is good. If there is any positive reading on the scale, the element is grounding itself and will require replacement.

4)Test the lower heating element exactly as the upper heating element.

5)Place the access doors back on the water heater tank, and secure them with the screws.

Good luck
E.CUADRA

check the wires,, follow them from the burner element back to the switch,. usually one of them burns off , you can check the wires with a simple meter ,, check for continuity

Hello,

The way power typically is supplied to the bake/broil elements is that directly off the terminal block 120volts ac is supplied directly to the elements at all times and when the touch pad is pushed a relay on the clock/eoc (electronic oven control) will close and supply 120vac so the element has 240vac to heat. you should be able to see the wire coming directly off the terminal block where the cord from the house wireing connects to,going directly to the elements and as stated above theother 120 vac from the relay to the elements (their is 2 relays,one for bake and one for broil)

As far as testing the oven sensor(temp probe) at room temp the ohms reading should be 1060-1100 ohms and as the tempature rise the ohms rise so to test it verify is 1060-1100 at room temp then heating it usinga blow dryer,match or cigarette lighter and the ohms should rise as it gets hotter and drop when its cooling

Good luck,i hope this helps and if it does help please give me 4 thumbs up

Gene

hi... test your heating element see if you have 240V going to it if you have 240V going to the element that you have a bad element

Check the inline fuse on the element to the ready light.

Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Unplug the dryer from the wall. There are 2 wires connecting power at the heating element. Take one of these wires off, doesn't matter which one, but take at least one of the 2 off. Then put your meter probes across the terminal of the heating element where you took the 1 wire off and the other terminal of the heating element that still has a wire on it. Your meter will pretty much read full continuity if good, no reading at all if bad. Also check from one of these terminals of the element with one meter probe going to the metal frame of the unit. You should get no reading. If you do the element is shorted and would have likely tripped your house breaker.

Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

hi follow the manual: http://www.kitchenaid.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZUSECARE/8574093.pdf if it dosent work then as you mentioned the heating unit is bad you can replace it by yourself by buying it and insalling it its easy as installing a lamp but you can call for help (number in the manual) good luck