Question about Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

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I have a Braun WK600 electric tea kettle. The On/Off switch does not turn on sometimes. How do I go about replacing this switch?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

oscarn
  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: kettle shuts off before boiling?

This is caused by a defective overload switch inbuilt in the kettle, sometimes the senitivity is higher than factory settings causing it to trip and reset several times before coming to boil. probably better to put up with it than going in for a costly repair.

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

  • 4102 Answers

SOURCE: sediment in my electric tea kettle

it is very hard to get rid off ass the sediment comes from the tap water untill you boil the water you dont see this sediment and take it for granted that the water is clean but as soon as you put it in a electric kettle this sediment builds up on the element then it brakes off and floats around in the kettle most new kettles have a filter near the spout so when you pour the water out it traps it in the filter then this can be removed and cleaned but the sediment floating in the kettle is hard to get out you can clean the element and descale it and then just keep pouring water in and out of kettle till its all out but it will soon build up again there are two ways to stop sediment one is filter all the water before putting in kettle but this can be slow process so not worth doing or the best sollution is buy a kettle that has a filter by the spout of the kettle and clean this regularly hope this is some help to you............................................

Posted on Nov 17, 2007

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: Our cuisinart electric tea kettle stopped working.

Most likey a burned out heating coil. You can buy them let me know the model number and I can give you a web site to go to buy it.

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: My Cuisinart electric tea kettle just stopped

I took the base apart an repaired the electrical connection. You need a special screwdriver to remove the 3 base screws. I took an old, cheap flat-head driver and filed a v-notch in the middle of the blade so it would work to remove the screws. Had to replace the connector because of corrosion. That fixed the problem for me.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Braun electric kettle won't click on. Do I

It's possible it can be fixed. Ours also no longer clicked. I took it apart and found that the flat plastic piece in the handle that activates the circuitry in the base had broken away from the rocker piece in the base. Fortunately the same flat plastic piece conveniently had a couple of holes in it in a helpful location. I looped some wire through the holes and also around the bottom rocker piece to hold the two pieces together.
I reassembled the kettle and tried it out and it now works fine! Problem fixed.
To disassemble, take the four screws out of the bottom of the kettle. (You'll need the appropriate star bits to do so.) Put those screws in a safe location... Lift off the bottom plate.
Now, the plastic for the handle is held in place by the typical notched clasps used by so many plastic appliances. You unsnap the clasps by CAREFULLY inserting a straight blade screw driver between the handle plastic and the kettle and GENTLY prying the handle plastic away from the kettle. You'll hear the internal clasps "popping" as they snap loose. You CANNOT take the handle all the way off this way. You just loosen it. Now, the top of the handle is a separate piece. Do the same for this. The top will pop completely off.
Next, GENTLY remove the lid. You can slide it a bit up and away. It's a tight fit, so you need to use a little force, but not too much.
Once you've done this, there are two metal pins that hold the main part of the handle to the kettle. They have a little ridge around the top that you can use to pry them out with your fingernail. Once those pins are removed, the handle will simply come off.
BE CAREFUL! The various parts in the handle are now loose! If you aren't careful they'll fall off and you'll have to figure out how to reassemble them.
Now, you'll notice the long flat plastic piece running down the side of the kettle. That piece was hidden behind the handle. It is SUPPOSED to be fastened to a rocker plate at the bottom. If you look at the end of the flat piece at the bottom you will likely see what I did. It had just disconnected from the rocker plate. Take some wire and wire the two pieces together using the little hole-like slots at the end of the flat piece. Just loop the wire through the hole and down around the rocker plate piece exposed inside where the handle is.
While applying this wire, it will be helpful to put a little masking tape across the various handle pieces to keep them from falling off. This is important because you'll probably be wiring the pieces together with the kettle on its side like I did, and the parts will fall off if you aren't careful. When you are done wiring things together you just remove the tape.
Once you've done this, reassemble the kettle in the reverse order you disassembled it.
You'll notice that once you've wired together the two separated pieces, pressing the switch on the top pulls up on the flat plastic piece which pulls the rocker plate which closes the circuit in the base.

Posted on Mar 02, 2011

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1 Answer

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This unit is discontinued and I doubt it would be cheaper than buying new and that's IF you can find it, sorry.

You might get by with a $10 "Digital Power Timer", though. That will shut your kettle off after whatever amount of minutes and seconds you program it for.

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HI,

OK, inside the unit there are three items, the heating element, thermostat, and thermal fuse.What has happened is the element got too hot and the thermal fuse opened.There is no reset button.In some cases you may run across a defective heating element or thermostat but its not common.The fix would probably be replacement of the thermostat and thermal fuse.For this, you would have to contact a small appliance repair center in your area.

Goodluck,
Please don't forget to rate the solution

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Your tea kettle has a thermal fuse inside that more that likely got over heated, it happens all the time with irons, coffee makers, most small appliances that are electric. you have to take the bottom off to find it and replace it. does it have an indicator lamp?

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Hi, follow the instruction below to clean it up...

Unplug the tea kettle from the wall outlet, and detach the plug from the kettle.

Pour 1/4 cup white vinegar into the kettle, and fill the kettle halfway with hot water.

Agitate the kettle so the vinegar mixture hits the sides of the kettle walls, and let the water sit for 20 minutes.

Discard the vinegar water, and scrub the interior of the kettle gently with a nylon sponge.

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My tea kettle leaks from the bottom


I just took ours apart for the same reason. In our case, it turns out that one of the two water indicators was cracked (at the top), causing the leak. The cracks were invisible without taking it apart.
tea-kettle-leaks-from-bottom-m020mvjvjnxgrwce5tmtu342-3-0.jpg

There's a bigger leak near the bottom of the same piece, where a piece of the plastic is missing:

tea-kettle-leaks-from-bottom-m020mvjvjnxgrwce5tmtu342-3-2.jpg

On the upside, the wk600 is really well designed - easy to take apart for repair. But I can't find replacement parts anywhere...

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Won't turn on


I have the same problem. It started about a week ago and I have to keep flicking the on switch to get it finally working. I think there's a problem with the contact with the base. Not sure if it's worth getting a replacement part for it. It worked well for 4+ yrs!

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1 Answer

Red light flickers, goes off, no heat


I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

Nov 22, 2007 | Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

3 Answers

Kettle shuts off before boiling?


I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

Aug 29, 2007 | Braun WK600 Cordless Electric Kettle

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