The oil pan nut plug wont tighten down because threads are striped what do i do too fix

1. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Cable Replacement (Positive/Negative) in Starting and Charging.
2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
4. Remove the oil filter.
5. Remove the oil pan skid plate.
6. Remove the crossbar.
7. Remove the bolts holding the battery cable brackets to the oil pan.
8. Remove the starter and move aside. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Starting and Charging.
9. Remove the transmission cover.
10. Remove the bracket for the starter positive cable and the transmission cooler lines form the side of the oil pan.
11. Disconnect the low oil level sensor electrical connector.
12. Remove the access plugs for the oil pan rear nuts.

13. Remove the following oil pan fasteners:
13.1. Remove the oil pan bolts.
13.2. Remove the two nuts at the crankshaft rear oil seal housing.
13.3. Remove the transmission to oil pan bolts.

14. Remove the oil pan and the gasket. Refer to Oil Pan Removal.

IMPORTANT: The low oil level sensor is not reusable. Use a NEW low oil sensor.

15. Remove the low oil level sensor, if required.
16. Clean all sealing surfaces on the engine and the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Clean and Inspect.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

IMPORTANT: The low oil level sensor is not reusable. Use a NEW low oil sensor.

1. Install a NEW low oil level sensor, if removed.
Tighten the sensor to 20 Nm (15 ft. Lbs).
NOTICE: Any time the transmission and the engine oil pan are off of the engine at the same time, install the transmission before the oil pan. This is to allow for the proper measurement of the oil pan tolerance. Failure to achieve the correct clearance can result in premature transmission failure.
2. Install the oil pan. Refer to Oil Pan Installation.
3. Install the transmission to oil pan bolts and nuts.
Tighten the bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft. Lbs.).
4. Install the access plugs for the oil pan rear nuts,
5. Install the bracket for the starter positive cable and the transmission cooler lines to the side of the oil pan.
Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs).
6. Connect the low oil level sensor electrical connector.
7. Install the transmission cover.
Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs).
8. Install the starter. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Starting and Charging.
9. Install the bolts holding the battery cable brackets to the oil pan.
Tighten the bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs).
10. Install the crossbar.
Tighten the bolts to 100 Nm (74 ft. Lbs.).
11. Install the oil pan skid plate.
Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. Lbs).
12. Install the oil filter and the oil pan drain plug. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Fill the engine with oil. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement
15. Connect the battery negative cable. Refer to Battery Cable Replacement (Positive/Negative) in Starting and Charging.

Best way is to remove oil pan and weld in a new nut for drain plug, next best is to retap the threads to a slightly larger size and replace drain plug.( get plug then retap to fit the new plug.) may change from std thread to metric to be able to do this. Lastly the least effective way i know of- buy a small rubber expansion plug that fits in and tighten bolt that runs through it to expand the plug. ( this should work for a while till you can get it fixed properly.

they make a plastic plug that will fit in a stripped hole on most oilpans..autozone carries these as do most autoparts stores..it uses a screwdriverlike tool to insert or remove..in cold weather it needs warmed up before insertion or it will rip apart..warm it in hot tap water..there are also certain tricks to repair these..a good welder can fix it fairly well..weld a fine thread nut over the hole and put the corresponding bolt in the nut..good luck..

the threads in the pad are likely stripped if its an aluminum pan or the nut has broken loose on the inside of the pan if it is a steel pan. Either way a new oil pan will be needed. Typically over tightening the drain plug will cause this to happen. Drain plug torque specs are pretty low, typically around 20 foot pounds. A person can easily exceed this with the average wrench.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Get an oil pan and place under drain plug on oil pan of the motor, remove drain plug and make sure while oil is running out that you have the pan in position to catch the draining oil. Locate oil filter and remove, sometimes you can do this by hand after wrapping with a rag, but you may need an oil filter wrench. It will have oil in it so be careful as you unscrew it to quickly turn the end with the threads up so as not to spill the remaining oil. Put the filter threads down on the drain pan to drain the filter. Make sure the new filter and the old filter are the same. I would put the threaded ends together to make sure the rubber seal is the same size. Put a couple drops of new oil on the new filters rubber seal and spread. Screw the new filter on being careful not to crossthread it, and tighten down by hand. Wrap a rag around the filter and give another quarter turn to tighten. Replace drain plug at oil pan and fill with oil. Start the motor and let run for 10-15 seconds and turn off and check oil level again, adding more if needed, but dont overfill.

Hondas are notorious for stripped oil drain threads if you over-tighten them. Remove the drain plug and take it to an Auto Parts store and have them check the size in mm and then tell them to check the pitch. Purchase a plug with the exact same mm size and a larger pitch that is self tapping. Oil-Tite makes them. Use thread cutting oil and slowly go in and out until the threads are all cut. Clean the threads out and it should not leak. If it does use a fiber gasket and it will seal. If the threads inside the pan are not stripped and the drain plug itself has the stripped threads you can buy a replacement at almost any parts store. Another option is to use just buy a larger drain plug and the use a tap & die to cut new threads in the il pan that match the new drain plug you bought.

GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE.BUY THREAD REPAIR KIT.

the story you are getting from the dealership sounds very strange. Contrary to what the dealer states the oil pan threads do not wear out over time or the quantity of oil changes. The oil pan threads will strip (be damaged) if the oil plug is tightened too much (too much torque is applied) when installing the plug.

On all cars and Mitsubushi's I have seen the oil pan plug is sealed from leaking oil with a metal or composite washer. The washer is installed on the plug and seals between the plug head and pan. The treads of the plug do not seal the pan as the washer serves this purpose. In most cases it is recommended this washer be replaced (a dollar or less) with every oil change but most people don’t. Have never seen a car that used only the treads to do the sealing.

It is possible someone has over tightened the plug at least once or many times leading the to the threads being stripped. If all your oil changes were at a dealer, then this damage was done by mechanics at the dealer. The other question is if the same dealer did your changes over a year (how many changes have been done?), why didn’t they bring this up before? Oil pan plugs do not just go bad, the pan threads fail because the plug is over tightened

but yes this is definetly possible in both the sense of the oil dran plug or the bolts that connect the oil pan to the engine block. Now if you mean the bolts that connect the oil pan to the engine block its only possible if the oil pan has been removed and someone put the bolt back in crossthreaded it or over tightened them. It couldnt so much happen from normal vibration, it would be a human error problem. and as for the drain plug that was covered above.
If you need further explanation on this problem please feel free to follow up with a comment and i will assist you from there. If this assisted you please feel free to rate it. Thanks, Midwest-tek

I assume you are turning the oil plug clockwise? If you have already fully seated the plug (all the way in), and it is still turning, you have either cross threaded and have stripped the plug threads or oil pan threads.
Take the plug back out and look at the both the plug threads and oil pan threads. Are there shiney small metal shavings or new thread markings? If so you will may need to remove the oil pan and those metal shavings, as those shavings could be detrimental to your engine/parts. You could possibly without removing the oil pan, use a small magnet-inserted into the hole, along with a flashlight and small mirror to check your progress, and retract the shavings out of the pan; but there is a chance of missing some.
Unfortunately, you may have to replace the plug (which I would try first $$ wise) and see if that works. If not attempt to tap the pan hole and try the new plug. If not then you are looking at either tapping out the pan hole to a bigger size and buying a bigger plug OR repacing the oil pan. Someone may have over tightened the plug causing this. It is only suppose to be tightened 15-20 ft lbs.
Let me know if this worked, or if you have additional information of questions. Feel free to contact me on FixYa.com!

Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the engine oil from the engine crankcase.
3. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
the exhaust manifold.
4. Remove the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts from
the catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
5. Remove the exhaust flex pipe.
6. Remove the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
bolts.
7. Remove the oil pan retaining bolts.
8. Remove the oil pan from the engine block.
Cleaning Procedure
1. Clean the oil pan sealing surface.
2. Clean the engine block sealing surface.
3. Clean the oil pan retaining bolts.
4. Clean the oil pan attaching bolt holes in the engine
block.
5. Clean the oil pan scraper.
Installation Procedure
1. Coat the new oil pan gasket with sealant.
Important : Install the oil pan within 5 minutes after applying
the liquid gasket to the oil pan.
2. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
3. Install the oil pan retaining bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts to 10 NSm (89 lb–in).
4. Install the oil pan flange–to–transaxle retaining
bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan flange–to–transaxle bolts to 40
NSm (30 lb–ft).
5. Install the exhaust flex pipe.
6. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
exhaust manifold.
Tighten
Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–exhaust manifold
retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
7. Install the exhaust flex pipe retaining nuts to the
catalytic converter or the connecting pipe.
Tighten
Tighten the exhaust flex pipe–to–catalytic converter
or connecting pipe retaining nuts to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
8. Connect the negative battery cable.
9. Install the oil pan drain plug.
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan drain plug to 35 NSm (26 lb–ft).
10. Refill the engine crankcase with engine oil.