I have an older Miller Furnace in a mobile home that I own. The unit was made around 1977-78. Think the model number is MGC-80-1. It does two things that seem odd. 1st is it will kick on like it should, warm the place up, then shut off. Then about 30sec-to a minute later, it kicks back on again briefly, then back off. It might do that a couple more times, even if I turn the thermostat down after the initial turn on. Is this normal? Secondly, the blower was replaced back in March of this year when I moved in. It works great. But when it's running, there's a rattle, like a loose bolt with a washer rattling against it. I tried removing the blower housing, then manually run the fan still in the housing, and the noise wasn't there, but setting the blower back on the furnace it's self, the rattle comes back. Sounds like a rattle from inside the furnace somewhere, towards the front, any ideas?
Re: I have an older Miller Furnace in a mobile home that...
Sounds like the fan control is playing up try cleaning the back of it could have dust in it cleaning my help fan could be a loose spindal which the fan spins on see if this helps
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This could be a number of different things. you may just need a simple service call or something major could be happening. I would call a trained professional on oil furnaces, if you do not know how to properly trouble shoot it.
Did you have an old nozzle to look at? The one that you're replacing? The Miller gun furnace for mobile homes is probably a .75 gal/hr. nozzle or less. You need a furnace tech to look at your furnace if you can't read the info. stamped on the nozzle. It will have a .75, or .65 maybe gal/hr rating and a number for the angle in degrees.Like 80 degree nozzle.
If you match up what came out of it,you should be fine. don-ohio (:^)
hello,The 90* nozzle is usally installed in miller brand units because of the "short" chamber.The 90* should not cause soot.Soot = not enough primary AIR into the burner mix.If the unit mfg. wants .50/80*a it should be used.#559 might translate into a .65gph input thus overfiring the unit.If a .50gph is installed the AIR mix problem will take care of itself (less fuel).Soot is unacceptable in your (young)3.5yrs unit and should NEVER have soot at all.The problem started when the nozzle was replaced try (insist) on mfg spec. nozzle.
If you remove the furnace doors, and find where the thermostat wires come in, leave the breaker off, and disconnect the thermostat wires at the furnace. Turn the breaker back on, if it doesn't run, then you have a short somewhere in the wall, in the thermostat wire.
If this is the case, then the best thing to do, is to re-run the thermostat wire to a closer location.
The moblie homes, older ones, use thermostat wires that are not encased in a plastic cover, and they use metal staples in the wall to secure the wire, so they can short through the wires, and making contact,,, this turns on the furnace.
If the furnace continues to run,,, it is a control issue in the furnace it's self and you will need a repairperson.
If this helps please rate the new guy :)
Thank you ,
Paul
Hi the motor might need some oil if you can oil this type ,
spin the motor with the power off see if the fan blades are rubbing on the sides , also push the fan blades back and fowards to the play in the bearing in the fan motor , you my find you need a new motor
OK so its an all electric furnace no gas? I cant think of anything clicking on an electric furnace except the sequencers or the safety switches.
If this is whats your hearing then the fan should definitely be running.
Feel carefully around the fan motor (I assume this is in a mobile home). See if you detect any heat coming around the blower area close to the fan motor. If so the fan motor may be at fault or one sequencer may be out (the main one of course...) the thing is can you get the fan to come on by turning the auto switch on the thermostat (or if older model the Auto On switch on the furnace) to ON? If so you can "limp by and have heat til someone either checks it or you can go on deeper into it. but to go deeper you'll have to let me know you know where the elements are and that you have a volt meter. and feel comfortable using it especially on HOT wires.
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