Question about Ingersoll Rand Ingersoll-Rand IR 315 Heavy Duty Air Twin Piston Inline Sander

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I disasembled to clean and replace seals. I can get the two pistons set in unison but the center gear that drives the sanding board im having problems getting it set where it goes. I went to try it and the board goes forward and stops and does not come back. Ingersol rand model #315 board sander

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: what type of oil do you use for this compressor

1962?? if memoryserves me right the call for a 30w oil non detergent

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

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SOURCE: where to get parts for

go to your nearest engineering shop and they can order them for you

Posted on Dec 04, 2010

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SOURCE: ingersol rand p185wir blowing compresor oil out air inlet

I'm not sure which model that is but if you have a separator element that may be a good place to start.

Posted on Nov 29, 2012

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SOURCE: 175 ingersol rand compressor putting a lot of oil out with air

It could be a failed air / oil separator filter or the steel pick up tube that goes down through the center of the oil separator (it is about the size of a pencil) could be clogged. Un screw it out of the top and see if you can blow air through it. Also check the hose leading off of it going back to the pump. If it is plugged it wont allow the oil to return and will push it into the air.

Posted on Feb 16, 2014

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NEED DIAGRAM FOR LOCATIONS OF CRANKSHAFT PULLY,OIL SLINGER AND SPRING.FOR 1983 MAZDA 2.2L DIESEL


Here is the procedure:-


  1. Remove setscrew from side of cylinder block.


  2. Remove oil pipe attaching bolts.


  3. Remove oil pump and strainer.
TIMING GEAR COVER



  1. Remove timing gear cover to case attaching bolts.


  2. Remove timing gear cover and gasket.

CAMSHAFT, CRANKSHAFT, IDLER & INJECTION PUMP GEARS



  1. Remove oil slinger and washers from crankshaft snout.
Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove crankshaft timing gear, Fig. 3.


  1. Position a clean rag between camshaft and idler gears, then remove cam gear lock bolt and washers.


  2. Using puller set 49 0839 425C or equivalent, remove cam gear from camshaft, Fig. 3.


  3. Remove idler gear to spindle retaining nuts and washers, then remove idler gear and spindle assemblies.


  4. Remove injection pump drive gear.


  5. Remove timing gear case to cylinder block attaching bolts, then the timing case.



CAMSHAFT




  1. Remove tappets from cylinder block.


  2. Remove camshaft thrust plate to cylinder block retaining bolts and washers, then pull camshaft from block.



PISTON & CONNECTING ROD




  1. Remove connecting rod bearing cap retaining nuts and bolts, then separate bearing cap from connecting rod.


  2. Using the wooden handle end of a hammer, push the piston and connecting rod assembly outward until piston rings clear cylinder bore. Remove piston and connecting rod assembly through top of cylinder block.


  3. To separate piston from connecting rod, remove piston pin retaining clips, then press pin from piston using a suitable driver.



CRANKSHAFT




  1. Remove rear oil seal cap retaining bolts, then the cap and seal.


  2. Remove main bearing cap to cylinder block retaining bolts, then the main bearing caps and thrust washers.


  3. Lift crankshaft from cylinder block.

Mar 26, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

High consumption of fuel


If you have serviced the engine, changed oil and oil filter and air filter and spark plugs and cleaned the carburettor or cleaned your throttle body and injectors, and its still heavy on fuel then try the following. Adjust the carburettor air and fuel. Take off the distributor cap and clean the rotor and spark pionts in the cap of carbon build up by means of light sand paper. Same applies to the spark/ high tension leads and coil lead metal connection points. Check distributor timing as well. If the engine smokes, do a compression test. If results are beneath factory specifications, remove cylinder head, replace the valve stem seals and re-seat the valves and or replace the pistons and piston rings. Basically engine overhall

Apr 13, 2014 | 1999 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

I have a 1986 yamaha 540 srv snomombile and when i throtle it up it bogs out and pops like a backfire do you have a suggestion on what is causing this and how to correct it?


You should purchase a gasket and seal set, pull your motor out of the sled, disassemble the motor, and replace all the gaskets and seals. You can purchase a piston kit on line that should come with pistons , rings , gaskets , and seals.The main problem you are having is an air leak on one or both of the crank end seals. Usually the clutch side seal leaks first. If you continue to drive you will probably score one or both of the cylinders.When you have the motor apart clean your carburetors and replace your spark plug caps. NGK has new plug caps for about $5 each. If your cylinders look good i would consider doing a light hone job and ring replacement. Again if you just buy new aftermarket seals pistons and gaskets you should be able to do a complete rebuild for about $150. Then your engine will be good for another 25 years. If you are limited on funds Just replace the crank seals , clean the carburetors, and put on new NGK plug caps (about $30).

Jan 18, 2011 | Yamaha SR 400 Motorcycles

1 Answer

My Bostitch nail gun just start the end of the gun don't return the start place please help .


remove the piston cover screws and slide the piston out by pushing back the firing pin clean and oil all seals and o rings this area tends to collect dirt and sand and should be cleaned periodicaly

Jan 09, 2011 | Stanley Bostitch Nail Gun

1 Answer

How to clean spark plugs on 2007 honda cbr


Replace the plugs, don't try to clean them. The proper way to clean plugs used to be to sand blast them. The problem was that bits of sand can remain deep inside the throat of the plug. When the sand breaks free it causes damage to the piston, rings, cylinder and valves. The only safe way to clean them is to blast them with dry ice particles. Cleaning plugs is not a big industry. The equipment required is hard to find and is expensive. You have a lot of money invested in your bike. Spring for a new set of plugs. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

Aug 11, 2010 | 2007 Honda CBR 1000 RR Fireblade

2 Answers

How do you remove the rear axle to change the axle seal, from a 2004 Coloraro?


remove the center cover facing the rear of the truck. you will see side gears with the shafts axle end at each side gear. a C clip will have to be removed from each shaft at the end of each axle. Then remove the wheels and pull out the axles

Feb 06, 2010 | 2004 Chevrolet Colorado

2 Answers

I need to know how to dis/reassemble a 1974 DT 360?


A service manual ( if you can find one ) is what you need. The second thing you need is repair parts. They are pretty hard to find. Babbitt's, a well known distributor, only has parts left in stock for the top end. Go to their website, www.babbittsonline.com/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx
and you can see what is left. There's also a diagram of the crankcase center halves. If you can't get the repair parts, spending hours doing an engine teardown is fruitless.

The teardown will require a flywheel puller, a case splitter, an impact driver, and a torque wrench (somewhat optional). Disassemble the top end then remove the left and right side case covers. Remove the flywheel and related electrics, the clutch, crankshaft drive gear, oil pump, kick starter, shift shaft assembly, shift drum end cap and index pins. Now remove the screws on the center case and you can then split the case. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. Note that crank seals can be replaced without splitting the case.

I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. This is why a manual would help. Another potential source for parts is to Google motorcycle salvage yamaha .
The normal things you would need to replace inside the center case would be bent shift forks (if shifting is the problem), busted gears, crank bearings and seals, and sprocket shaft bearing and seal. All else can be replaced by removing just the side covers.

Dec 10, 2009 | 1974 Yamaha DT 360

3 Answers

1988 yz 250 ,lacking power,spitting oil,possibly power valve?


More than likely the majority of the problem is related to poor compression pressure. When was the last time the engine was re-built (a new top end)?

I would suggest evaluating the condition of the piston, ring and cylinder. Replacing the piston and ring and won't set you back much if the bore in the cylinder is good and it will definately perk your bike back up.

Clean that air filter too - a plugged filter will cause the bike to run rich, too.

Jun 04, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

1 Answer

How do i replace the front caliper seal on 06 malibu maxx??????


while the seals in the calipers are replaceable, its probably easier just to get a new/re manufactured caliper. if for any reason the seals don't work perfectly you could lose control of the vehicle when attempting to stop. with that said i'll try to explain the best i can how to replace the seals in the calipers for that vehicle.

1. jack up the front of the vehicle, place on jackstands and remove the front wheels, make sure the parking brake is on
2. unbolt the caliper and unbolt the brake line from the caliper and take caliper to a clean bench
3. remove the dust boot retaining ring on the caliper that holds the boot to the caliper itself
4. using a blowgun with a rubber tip apply low pressure compressed air where the brake line was bolted to the caliper to push the piston out of the bore (be carefull and ready because the piston may shoot out with some force)
5. when the piston comes out you will need to replace the dust boot and the seal so remove the boot and seal carefully so you don't scratch the piston ( the seal is actually in the caliper piston bore hole)and throw out the old seal and boot.
6. inspect all the surfaces and make sure there are no imperfections at all on the piston, the piston bore, or the caliper, if the surfaces are marred in anyway, replace the caliper, if they are good, using brake cleen and compressed air clean all parts then dry them
7. get the new seal and lubricate with DOT 3 brake fluid
8. install new seal into the caliper bore
9. apply a thin coat of DOT 3 brake fluid to the piston itself
10. install bottom half the the caliper piston into the caliper bore.
11. install new dust boot seal onto the piston
12. compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore
13. fully seat the dust boot seal into the caliper and install retaining ring
14. reinstall on vehicle (make sure to use a NEW copper washer on the brake line to caliper fitting) and bleed the braking system while checking for leaks.

repeat process for the other side.

if the caliper leaks at all from the piston after seal replacement, replace the caliper.

make sure you properly bleed the brakes before attempting to drive your car.

*these direction were extracted from personal experience and manufacturer information*

any other questions just ask!


Feb 20, 2009 | 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx

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