Question about TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

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How do i bypass the DTS400B timer in order to test a sign?

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Programming PDF:

Wiring PDF:

Above are links to your specific product that you may find handy.
The Tork DTS400B is a 4 channel timer
4-channel means you can control 4 separate loads, and each load can have a different timing schedule
Each channel or Load is wired separately.

To bypass the timer to check the sign, we can do that with the wiring
Open the wiring PDF above.
There are 2 boards of screws.
Wires to the clock are on Lower board and to the left.
These wires operate the timer clock only and we will not work with them.
The Loads (your sign) are wired to the other terminals on Lower and Upper board.
Below is a graphic taken from wiring PDF.
It shows a close up of the Lower board where your Loads connect.
how do i bypass the DTS400B timer  in order to - geno_3245_15.jpg

I added Load1 and Load2 to the graphic so it is easier to talk about the terminals.
Before moving any wire, mark the wires with tape and numbers so there is no confusion later when you want to put the wires back.
Take a digital photo of the marked wires before any wires are moved.
To bypass Load1 timer functions, move the N wire to the same terminal as the L wire.
This will close the circuit, so the Load will be ON continually.
To bypass Load2, move the N wire to same terminal as L wire.

In this way, you can check each of the 4 possible Loads separately.

When finished checking the Loads, move your wires back.

Also above, I included the programming PDF so you have a digital (and search-able) manual for the programming functions.

Add a comment if you need more help.

Posted on Nov 07, 2010


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Get the schematic and look at the timer. there are two wires that you can jump across and verify that the timer is bad by bypassing it all together. If all your checks tested good then the timer is bad. If you have any doubt order the part from because you get a full refund even if you put it in and it does not work

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

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Okay Element should read around 38 OHMS if okay providing the voltage is at the element then it should heat, if no volts then check stat , cut outs and timer, in that order

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The freezer retains frost and obstructes the fan.

Defrost cycling is poor.
Locating the defrost timer hiddenbehind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in some units it's located in the ceiling of the fresh food section,and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer,slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with astraight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If thedefrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrostthermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrostheater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you haveno power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat tosee if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass thedefrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer anddefrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hairdryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timerseems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screechingnoise )...replace it. Once defrost cycling is cleared, you will get better cooling in fridge compartment also. Thanks.

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Can i put 120 volts to the dry contacts on a tork dts400b timer?

1) DTS wiring shows on link below:
Timer appears on page below:

2) Tork DTS400B is 4 channel timer, so you can control 4 different Loads with different programming for each Load.

3) I am not 100% certain what you are asking.
Timer can be wired for 120V operation.
Clock motor has separate wiring from Load wiring.

4) Clock motor is shown in wiring diagram as 'Timer supply'
Timer supply is on lower row of terminals.
120 Volt Hot connects to screw terminal identified as 120
120V Neutral connects to screw terminal identified as N
Clock motor wiring does not pass to the Load or channel terminals.

5) Load terminals are not fed by 120V connection to Timer supply.
Each load is wired separately.
For example lets say Load 1 is channel 1 or CH1.
Hot to CH1 connects to terminal C.
Neutral to CH1 connects to terminal NO, or to NC terminal.

6) Terminal NO normally open turns ON when timer turns ON
Terminals NC is normally closed is ON full time, except when timer tuns ON. So NC turns OFF when timer turns ON.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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Yes you can I was actually about to purchase one myself. I left mine on it's side for a couple of years and the mud built up on the inside.

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1 Answer

The dryer is not heating

Hello there here is a list of things to check
Testing with an ohm meter checking on a dryer....
These are the places that pass voltage to the heater elements on an electric dryer. In order to check a dryer for no heat, here is a list of places to check. Remember to always unplug the appliance before starting testing with an ohm meter. Always remove wires from the part you are testing with an ohm meter ( write down what goes where first before removing any wires ).
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse

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Dear Paireyes,

Things that can stop electric dryer from heating are as listed: house fuse or breaker, heating element, burnt wire, thermostat, thermal fuse (not all models), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug

To check various points here are the simple tips:
  1. To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  2. To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  3. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
  4. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

Here is the link for the dryer and how to disassemble the dryer along with the images:

Let me know if that helps. All the best :)


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