Question about Chauvet Mini Strobe

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I can see a smaal current going trough the bulb but it doesnt fire regularly

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  • Chauvet Master
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It is important to understand how strobes work. A capacitor is charged to around 300 volts through a high value resistor. When the bulb is triggered, the capacitor charge drives the lamp with a high burst of current as the lamp breaks down with plasma. The lamp is USUALLY triggered by a very fine wire around it or one end that recieves a several thousand volt pulse from a trigger transformer that creates a field near the electrodes within the flash lamp. This field starts the gas in the tube breaking down which causes the plasma to form.
Typically you should see the voltage across the lamp build up to around 300 volts DC. You would need special instruments to see and measure the high voltage pulse that triggers the flash.
The usal cause of failure is degradation of the flash tube due to sputtering of the electrodes at one end. If you see a blackening near one end of the flash tube, time to replace the flash tube. DO NOT handle the glass of the flash tubes as skin oils can degrade them. If the bulb shows no blackening, possibly the triggering is not working. NO current flows through the flash tube until triggered, however there would be a small current charging the capacitor that is in parallel with the tube to build it to around 300 Volts DC.

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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I have a pair of peavey sp-2xt speakers if i use the full range input the horn would not work but if i plug it direct to the hi input it works .any sugestions to fix problem thanks


There is possibly a bad solder connection or component on the crossover. I cant remember if that crossover uses a 12volt light bulb or not, for DC current protection, if it does make sure the bulb is good.

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I'm repairing the power supply. I replaced T3,T4,Ic1,D24. but the disipator gets hot when I try to disconect a bulb I conected it in series at the input cord, and then connected back with out the...


Voltage readings are normal. I don't know what you mean by dissapator? There are five separate heat sinks on the board. Which is heating? Is this with the load connected? If no load is connected none of the heat sinks should get hot. In regular operation with the fan running they may get warm. If no load and the big one is heating, then one or more of the three terminal regualtors has shorted. If the one with the big diodes near the 70 volt caps is heating, look for shorted surface mounted caps on the bottom of the board near the 70 volt connectors. If the heat sinks with the IGBT switchers are heating, look for a bad gate speedup surface mounted diode. It is unlikely the input diodee heatsink is heating.

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I was playing then all the sudden it sounded like it shorted out. The power is still on and the tubes fire up but the "STANDBUY" switch isn't lighting up when in on position. Please help.


The speaker is blown. Did it smell a little funny when this happened. Sometimes they get a faint burning smell when they blow. Some Peavey amps especially older ones are known for letting DC current slip through to the speaker and blows it immediately. Most of the rest of the amp deals with that pretty well so I'm not quite sure what going on with the standby switch. Probably just a blown bulb.

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I got a Marshall MG100HDFX for free from a friend stating it was blown. I asked how this happened and he said that one of his friends plugged in another speaker or amp into the second speaker input in the...


The power amp section has blown parts. You will likely find they use a chip like the TDA7293 as the power amp output and it will be blown, shorted causing the fuse to blow. These cost $6 from Digikey.com. Find a competent tech to replace it and use heat sink compound. Verify the part before ordering one. They come with leads bent either way so make sure you get the one with a matching suffix letter. When firing up after repair, put a 60 watt light bulb in series with the hot power lead to act as a current limiter... saves blowing fuses if there is another problem.

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Hello I have GK 1001 bass amp that stoped workirepng. I removed it from the case to get at the circuit board. Once I got down to the component level I descovered that several of the power transisors...


Yep... happens all the time. That is why I cold start an amp like this with an incandescent lamp in series to act as a current limiter. I will tell you what is wrong. You did NOT go back far enough in finding the bad parts. Also some that were not shorted MAY have been degraded. The real problem lies in the driver transistors and the bias regulating circuit and the transistors in that area. This amp has a mass number of components and there are many that if they fail they wipe out a bunch. When you think you have it repaired run it a while with a 150 Watt light bulb in series with the power input cord. Here is your schematic:

http://elektrotanya.com/gallien-krueger_1001rb-2_sch.pdf/download.html

Scroll down to the link "Get Manual" and click to download. In the schematic there are over twenty transistors involved with power output and bias stability. This is one of the most complex amps I have seen. They get voltage capability by having two series banks of transistors to each voltage rail. The biasing network is a nightmare!!! Pot R28 sets the rest bias which you measure between J5-1 and J5-2 which is 1/3 of the rest current across a total of .4 ohms... whatever it is supposed to be. Q3, Q7, Q16 and Q17 are ALL real critical to the biasing as well as the smaller Q12 and Q13 and all the others. The problem when you have a feedback amplifier is if any of these components are sick, the feedback will still attempt to balance the amp even though it sloowly fries other parts. Frankly, this is going to be a miserable one to fix. Use the light bulb trick and a Variac. There are a few voltages marked n the schematic USE THEM TO CHECK the operation. When certain transistors go, they will take a bunch with them... NOTICE the FUSIBLE resistors up near the rails a couple stages back... need to check all of those and replace with IDENTICAL ones if they are blown or way off value. There are a lot of Zener diodes that ALL need to be checked as they afect the bias levels. You will need nearly full voltage during checking which really makes it tough. With the light bulb if too much current is drawn from the line the light will light absorbing the power line voltage. The light should remain off when repaired AND voltages should be near what is shown on the schematic. I would expect to see half the rail voltage across each of the sets within the banks when at idle. Good luck... from an electrical engineer with 50 years exp.

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1 Answer

Blown fuse on the board.The fuse is so welded in? does this fuse control the crossover?


There is a speaker protection network in most of Peavey speakers protecting the tweeter horn.

It consists of a Polyfuse (round disk about the size of a nickle or quarter, a resistor and an incandescent bulb.

Circuit can be found at: (go to last post attachment) http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2260

Copied from earlier post I made for another.

For the MOST PART the lamp is NOT the primary path for the speaker current, the POLYFUSE is and is a low resistance until it is overdriven.

The bulb is a 12 volt bulb and is nominally 2.1 amps when used on 12.8 volts.

If this is in regards to the other problem mentioning 32 watts and 12.8 volts... this bulb is NOT 32 Watts, it is 32 CP or 32 Candlepower which is NOT Watts in general. The lamp is actually around 27 Watts when run at its ratings.

It is important to realize that the lamp and the resistor are there ONLY as a "soft" path when the POLYFUSE opens due to overcurrent. When the polyfuse cools, the lamp and resistors are effectively shorted by the Polyfuse and most of the current again flows through the polyfuse..

Mar 06, 2011 | Peavey PR15 400w PA Speakers

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Hi,i got the circuit diagram of the soundguard protection u have sent, but the resistor(50w 5ohms) used in your circuit. in my circuit two resistors(25w 10ohms each) are used in parallel. so in my case...


For the MOST PART the lamp is NOT the primary path for the speaker current, the POLYFUSE is and is a low resistance until it is overdriven.

The bulb is a 12 volt bulb and is nominally 2.1 amps when used on 12.8 volts.

If this is in regards to the other problem mentioning 32 watts and 12.8 volts... this bulb is NOT 32 Watts, it is 32 CP or 32 Candlepower which is NOT Watts in general. The lamp is actually around 27 Watts when run at its ratings.

It is important to realize that the lamp and the resistor are there ONLY as a "soft" path when the POLYFUSE opens due to overcurrent. When the polyfuse cools, the lamp and resistors are effectively shorted by the Polyfuse and most of the current again flows through the polyfuse..

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1 Answer

Power does not turn on for a marshall avt150h amp. most likely a blown fuse. got it a year ago and never had to get replace the fuse before. don't want to make a mistake. need instructions on fuse...


If the fuse blew for a reason, replacement MAY do further damage.

The way to test is to put a 150 watt light bulb in series with one of the power input wires and replace the fuse. The lamp will limit the current so further damage would not be done.

If lamp stays off and unit works, you are good to go. If lamp stays on, then service is required.

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