Rear brake calipers on 2003 ford expediton are dragging the inside of rim on both sides

Hi. Have you checked the brake pads? I guess its time to repalce the pads.

remove wheel, 2 bolts hold caliper to caliper bracket. Remve caliper, slide old pads out of the bracket, slide new pads into braket. Use large C clamp to gently push caliper pistons back into the caliper so they will clear the thicker new pads. Since you will be forcing brake fluid back when doing this, you should loosen bleeder screw on the caliper to allow the excess brake fluid to escape...otherwise, you are pushing this fluid back up into the master cylinder reservoir. replace 2 caliper bolts, then bleed brakes.

Correction/Addition

Specific to the 2003+ Expedition, the caliper is retained by two 7mm hex key (allen) bolts.

More generic to brake pad changes:

You should only loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper if you have added brake fluid since the last time the brakes were changed, or if you top it off after changing the front AND rear brakes. Most newer cars are designed such that the brake fluid reservoir will be low enough to illuminate the "brake" light on the dash when the brake pads are low, thus alerting the driver that the brakes need service. For this reason it is most common to simply push the fluid back into the master cylinder, and make sure the fluid level is full after finishing the brake job. The master cylinder should be filled to the "Full" line only after changing the front AND rear brake pads, and pressing on the brakes a few times until the pedal becomes firm. If you only changed either the front or rear, just check the fluid level after depressing the brake pedal. If it is very far below the "Full" line, you should check the pads that you didn't change for wear. Brake fluid should not be added at this time unless the set of pads that were not changed have plenty of life left, and the reservoir is extremely low; otherwise wait until both sets of pads are changed at the same time. The brake fluid should also be flushed (a.k.a. Bleeding the Brakes) every 60K-100K miles; this should be done at the same time that both sets of pads are changed, however it is a more complicated and sensitive proceedure, which may need to be done by a trained technician. Simply changing the pads without bleeding the bakes can be done with common hand tools, by any reasonably mechanically inclined individual.