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They don't always use the correct wire colors,if it is labeled w it is for your strip heat,shouldn't hurt to hook it up,most likely they used it for the strip heat,most heat pumps are wired to turn on your strip heat when the heatpump is in defrost mode and it is controlled by the heat pump,you can hook this to the emerg. heat or w2 :)
Definately get this checked out. Some thing has shorted just enough to let voltage "Feed back" and keep the fan running. Could be capacitor, wires rubbed through each other, etc. A reset is a safety that is used when there is an overcurrent or over pressure situation. No reset set for this situation.
There is always an outside chance that if you touch the unit while standing on wet ground, you may get shocked. I firmly believe that something is allowing power to the fan in a feedback condition so don't let this go as it may cause damage to other parts.
Good Luck and let me know how you make out on this.
Do you have gas or electric heat. If you have gas then you do not have a heat pump. You should in most cases have a red,yellow, white, and green wires coming to the thermostat. R should go to rc/rh G should go to green Y should go to Y and w should go to W. Also the switches on back should be switched to non heat pump and gas rather than electric. Hope this helps.
Did you just install this heat pump? If so it sounds like you replace a regular a/c with a heat pump, which will require more wires for the reversing valve. First check to make sure you have 24v going to the condenser. Make sure you have a heat pump t-stat. You should have a orange t-stat wire for your reversing valve. At the t-stat you will have terminals R, Y, G, O, X or C or B, W1, and W2. R is half of your 24v circuit and is a red wire, Y is for cooling mode, G is the Fan green wire, O is for the reversing valve, orange wire, X or C or B is the other half of control circuit blue wire, W1 and W2 is the heat strips in the furnace tan and black wires. These are standard color code but remember electricity does not know colors and an installer may have used different colors. If all of this is correct possibly bad contactor.
Does the air handler take a minute or two to start, this would be normal so that it doesn't blow cool air into the house before the unit is warmed up. If not could be the fan relay is weak and needs replacing. As far as the outside unit it sounds like you need to check the refrigerant. In cooling they are 70/150 psi. This should be checked in cooling mode, once you turn it to heating mode the pressures switch bring heat inside the house instead of out. I hope this helps.
does the furnace ignite?? your system may not have been lighting and has gone into ignition lockout count the codes of the led lights then remove panel led diagnostic codes are listed there.
if led codes indicate no problem verify capacitor is good and that mtr is getting 115 volts.
If back-up heat comes on when a/c is turned on and then the back up heat turns off shortly after the a/c turns off, then the low voltage wiring is NOT correct. Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. this could also be your problem if the t-stat thinks it is telling the H/P to cool but the H/P is actuall interpreting the signal to heat. Check your amp draw on the furnace, if you have anything drawing 15 amps+ then it is most likely the actual elect heat running, if not then check the "B" terminal. Most universal t-stats come set from the factory to use the "O" terminal which is more common. Usually this can be changed in the installer setup menu on the stat or sometimes the stat will have separate "O" and "B" terminals
This is a heat pump right? You have the blue connected to o/b, I assume you have a yellow wire connected to y or cool. The thermostat may need a jumper wire from RC to RH on the thermostat. This gives 24v to the heat system to work. If you have this already, then the orange wire is most commonly connected to the reversing valve. On the wiring directions that came with the thermostat what does it have common assigned to (if any)? And you need to know that the reversing valve is energized in cool or heat mode. the wiring diagram will tell you this.
Start with the simplest first it,s not fun but it's necessary EVERY TIME. Clean your evaporator and condenser coil, change your air filter. Getting to the evap. coil is often a real headache and a result doesn't get done often. When its clogged as you probably know the refrigerant can't absorb heat at the coil so it tries to absorb heat on the way to the compressor freezing the hot gas line the safety circuits that protect the heat pump compressor from getting liquid refrigerant back to the compressor almost immediately will take the compressor of line (looking somewhat like a defrost cycle). I hope this helps it's a tough repair GL!