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Dryer heating element

Dryer runs (drum rotates) but no heat since nearby lightning strike. Is there a fuse in the dryer for the heating element.

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  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    Heating element works , drum remains motionless

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  • 413 Answers

There is a fuse in the dryer for the heat.
Before tearing into the dryer, make sure the power getting to the dryer is absolutely correct. (check power with the dryer running) Even with incorrect power to the dryer. the drum will still turn but there will be no heat.
Many a person has paid for expensive service calls for the problem you are having only to discover by the servicer that there was nothing wrong with the dryer but had bad power to the dryer......

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

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If the lightbulb burns out in a whirlpool duet gew9250pw1 dryer will that cause it to quit working


Generally, a burnt-out bulb will not stop the dryer from working. However, the bulb may have failed due to a power surge. In that case, you'll have to check the components that could have also been damaged.
First, check that the circuit breakers are on. (There may be two breakers for an electric dryer.) Next, is the drum turning or does the unit not start. If the control board buttons aren't responding, the electronic control is likely bad or the wiring harness has an issue. If you aren't getting heat, you need to check the thermal fuse (thermal cut-offs), wiring, thermostat (high temp limit) and element. A multi-meter will tell you if the fuses have the appropriate resistance (10-30 Ohms).

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(note: if you recently had a nearby lightning strike and other electric appliances were damaged, check if your insurance will cover the costs of repair after you meet your deductible.)

Jun 07, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer is running but there's no heat


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and brittle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine.
I have some repair photos: HERE

Nov 27, 2010 | Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer not heating


usually when the dryer is not heating is because the heating element has break. you can purchase a heating element kit with insulators at a parts appliance store.requires taking the dryer apart and removing the drum. the heating element is behind the drum. if your handy you should have no problem. good luck!

Jul 25, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No Heat,Cloths will not dry


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum.2d7f6df.jpg A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and brittle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. One of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature for the dryer to operate safely.e3c839a.jpg The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safety's are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter.17d1511.jpg That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. c92e858.jpg9cc4f3c.jpg27065fb.jpged19d36.jpg

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1 Answer

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It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine.

May 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LEN2000PW Dryer

3 Answers

No heat


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1 Answer

Dryer tumbles but no heat. no low heat or hi heat


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

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1 Answer

No heat drum turns no heat blower works no heat


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

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1 Answer

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