Question about Ridgid Heavy Duty 10" Portable Table Saw with Stand

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When I turn my saw on it surges from full power to almost no power. This happens contiually while running. I checked the motor brushes and they llok good.

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It happens continually while cutting? If you try to cut some that the machine has no power to do the job it will stop.

If you look inside the motor and look if the motor has some burn on the cooper motor wiring?

Posted on Nov 09, 2010


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Kirby G4 was surging, then a flash of light and a pop from outlet!

the surge is caused by a faultering armture, might be caused by low carbons or sticking carbons, strip the motor down for inspection. Or take it to your local kirby service centre shop for clean and service and polish. price range from 39 to 59

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If the motor does not turn hot its is good news. Then try to clean the contact brushes that provide power to the motor, making sure the device is UNPLUGED from the electric supply.If that works, it is confirmation it is a brush issue. If so, consider replacing the brushes wich are unexpensive

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The armature is bad. A new armature is about the same cost as a new saw. Buy a Milwaukee next time.

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Dewalt DW718 Sparks When cutting . just bought it

The people from Lowes were right.
There are two types of motor designs: Induction motors and brush-type motors.
All electric motors that have brushes make sparks where the brushes contact the rotating commutator. They also run less efficiently but they are a bit smaller than induction motors for equal power output. Brushed motors can also deliver greater power at initial startup.
Because the sparks in brushed motors create heat, the housing around the motors typically have ventilation slots for air to go through to keep the commutator cool. This means you are likely to see the sparks if you look in the right place.
Since it's more difficult to get an induction motor turning, they typically have a "start capacitor" mounted on the side of the motor to give an extra kick to get the stator turning. While induction motors use less power when running, the amperage they use at start-up is typically double the running amperage.

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Problem will be either low brush lengths or burnt armature. Check for arcing when running and excessive sparking will mean motor over haul or replacement.

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My saw has a weird power surge at start up.

The brake problem could be caused by 3 things. The first thing to check is the brushes. Unscrew the brush caps or pull the back housing cover off and check them (depends on the type number). The brush holder and everything should slide out. They should have clean smooth action going in and out of the brush holders.

Next thing to check is the switch. Does it have a clean click when you use the switch and when you release it? Sometimes dust gets in there and messes with it.

The last thing in the field coil in the motor. The current is reversed when the switch is let go and slows the motor.

It's probably the brushes.

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I have a delta contractors table saw that wont start. It has a Marathon Electric Motor 62-044 that hangs off the back. It has capacitors rather than brushes. When you turn on the swithch it does nothing. I...

Most likely to quit suddenly is the switch.
My table saw switch broke recently, and at first I thought it was the motor.
Over the years I remember seeing table saws fitted with a handy box and ordinary light switch to replace the table saw switch.
Check for power at motor: Sometimes the wire connection from switch has access box on the motor where you can get in and check for power.

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Common problems are motor brushes on direct drive saws and also the switch. The switch takes a lot of surge current and often burn the contacts. Troubleshoot with a voltmeter or ohmmeter.

If power cords are flexed alot, they can break at flex points.

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Saw just stop working doesn't come on check switch looks good. have move then one saw and 2 have just stop running after a while of cutting. Neither where over heated. I have 3 saws 16" 14" and pole is the...

You need an AC voltmeter to check things--measure across the switch contacts (switch off) for ~120 volts. Have someone press the switch while reading voltage--it should go to 0 volts (switch is good). Check for 120 volts at the motor connections (switch pressed--good). Check the motor brushes for damage or worn too short. The springs should appear bright brass colored and expand full length. If dark colored and collapsed, the springs need to be replaced. If no power from the power cord, look for a broken wire--usually at the plug end. A high load on the motor can cause the brush springs to overheat and collapse. Make sure the chain moves easily and is properly oiled. Make sure the air venting for the motor is not plugged with sawdust. Hope some of this helps!

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Saw will not run

I had the same problem several months ago with a craftsman (shut down during a long rip), and the reset switch had tripped but did not actually pop out. I tested everything in the line between the power supply and the motor, and found out that the reset switch was not conducting. I was able to reset it manually before re-installing it into the saw, and it's been fine ever since. I'd test that before you start pulling the motor out, it would be a much easier fix if the switch was just sticking.

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