Saw your good advice on another Kenmore post and hope you can help me out.
I brought my Kenmore to Haiti and it stopped working properly. Local tech came over today and after testing power through the heating coil alone and then through the coil with a black cylindrical unit about 1.5 inch in diameter (which I think is a thermostat) both resulted in the heating coil heating. So, he is convinced that it is the controllers in the electronics that is malfunctioning and not telling the heating coil to defrost. This results in ice buildup and only the bottom 1/3 of the unit freezes and the compressor runs non-stop.
Are we on the right track ? I should add that we have frequent power outages and I have to run the freezer on city power and then on an inverter and a bank of 16 - 6V batteries. Could these changes in power have affected the electronics ?
Should I order a new electronics board to replace it ?
Well don't be surprised, these electronic fridges run on dc electronics also and are sensitive to power surges. is this the freezer because there's no thermostats just the limit control. use a surge protector on the outlet to protect the electronics. if your still having problems get the limit sensors changed first (if applicable). if you want to go the safe way, I'd consider buying a surge protector and connecting it to the power.you can e-mail me with any questions @ email@example.com
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www.realestate.com > Realestate.com Blog > Articles Aug 12, 2012 - Alternatively, if the freezer is in a defrost cycle, it will not kick on immediately, the temperature ... Refrigerant circulates through coils, spreading coldthrough the unit interior before .... We have a kenmore upright deep freezer.
Hello, The unit is freezeing because you are having a fault when the unit is trying to go into its defrost cycle. Click this link http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R0303508-00003.png you would have to perform a continuity test on parts 20 and 14 using a multimeter to see which of these two is at fault. Usually it is part 20 which is the defrost thermostat that causes this issue in the unit. If you do test both of these parts and both do have continuity message me back for further diagnosis. Thanks I await your reply and please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future. Thanks
sounds like defrost timer is stuck check to see if there is a screw on it that you can manually turn with a screwdriver 1 or 2 clicks. maybe a lot of dust on the cooling fins also that can be vacuum. hope this helps
In most cases, an evap that freezes up is either an air flow problem or no defrost cycle. Older Hobarts have mechanical defrost time clocks. It could be locked up i.e., not running so no defrost cycle.
It could be coming out of defrost too early because the sensor that monitors the evap temp is not working properly.
The door could not be closing. If left cracked open, it will freeze up every time as unit never hits temp., keeps unit running. Warm air is seeping in and the moisture freezes on evap.
Lastly, the defrost heater(s) may not be working. Burned out, shorted, broken wire, etc.
the tech was telling you to put it in defrost and if ater the time you didn't hear the click the defrost timer is defective but like you are describing the defrost thermostat (bimetal) could be bad. here's a simple test (if your handy with a screwdriver) just dissasemble the panel and you will see the coil and defrost heater. if your handy with a voltmeter (please disconnect power first!) locate the two wires to the defrost element put the meter in "audible" mode and check for continuity on the defrost heater if you hear a beep it's good if it dosen't beep it's bad just replace heater w/ bimetal and your ready 2 go! email me @ hvac.tech7872pr@gmail if you have any questions
You should check the drain hose inside underneath the freezer.This is done at the back down below. Mine was looped too high and water could not get out. I took the loop off that was holding the hose and now water can drain away without freezing. You can pour warm water down the drain hole to melt the ice in the tube if you remove the grate covering it inside the freezer. I have read that several Kenmore upright freezer owners have the same problem. I was astonished that this was the problem and I had put up with it for too long, defrosting the freezer every 2-3 months!.Give it a try!
It seems your temp. control board or thermistor is not reading the temps and just keeps on running and running. Can you lower it to the lowest setting and (with a thermometer) see if the temps actually get warmer inside (will take a day or two to warm up).
As for the ice on the bottom if the drain for the defrost cycle is plugged you may be getting water inside which then re-freezes. Let us know what you find and we can go from there.
I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!