Question about Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: whirlpool dryer
First make sure you have power to the unit through the plug. If power is present, then you most likely have an open Thermal Safety Fuse. The Thermal is a Safety feature that shuts off the power to the Heat Element in the event the Blower is not blowing or the Lint Vent becomes clogged not allowing air to flow over the Heat Element. NO air flow, Heat Element over heats, Thermal Safety Fuse opens, power shuts off. If the Thermal Safety Fuse is open find out why. Was the blower not working? Was the Lint Filter clogged? ( Lint Filter should be cleaned after each use to assure continued air flow.) Was Lint Vent Clogged? This is the Vent Hose that goes from the Dryer to the outside of your house. It should be checked for free air movement. The next thing-- Could be a defective Timer or Control Module.
Find where you lost power and WHY!!
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Thin Twin
Before you run in there with a hammer, is there any way to simply turn off the buzzer alert? I have a different dryer, but I can disable the buzzer. Please check the operator's manual first. If you've gotten to the point of no return, you can disable the buzzer - carefully. Never leave any exposed wires dangling about.
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
SOURCE: Whirlpool Thin Twin YLTE6234DQ2
YOU CAN DO THIS.,POP THE FRONT PANEL OFF,GO TO THE SWITCH PLUG JACK ON RIGHT SIDE UNPLUG JACK,ON THE SWITCH SIDE WIRES CUT THE OUTSIDE WIRES PUT THEM TOGETHER WITH WIRE NUT,LEAVE GREEN WIRE ANONE,PLUG BACK INTO JACK,YOUR DONE,REMEMBER NOW IN THE SPIN CYCLE IT WILL WORK BUT WHEN YOU OPEN THE LIP IT WILL NOT TURN OFF SO KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THERE,THANKS-MIKE
Posted on May 28, 2008
The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
Not sure about the dryer but there are a couple things that could cause the no draining issue.
You could have a leak or block in your pressure hose. Basically there is a thin, clear tube inside the cabin that attaches to the tub on the lower right side. If this has a leak or is clogged then the washer has problems filling and draining.
The other possible problem is a broken lid switch. This is an easy fix. Basically, the mechanical mechanism that goes down when you close the lid does not work properly so when it comes time to drain, the washer actually thinks the lid is open.
For both of these you would need to open cabin. I posted instructions for that here:
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
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