Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin
Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
SOURCE: Broken Washer
it could be the direct drive coupling that connects the motor to the transmission. fill it up with water and see if it will agitate, if it will NOT agitate then it is a good chance that this is the problem.
worse case scenario is the transmission is bad, but this is unlikely.
Posted on Aug 04, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
SOURCE: how to install lid switch
The symptom of a washer that fills normally, but stops suddenly and will not drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction.
The following link explains how to install a lid switch:
If this is just a matter of reinstalling a switch that has come loose, a new switch may not be required. Inspect to ensure the mounting screws, switch casing, or switch lever are not broken. Make sure the mounting screws are tight. NOTE: You do not have to drain the washer to replace the lid switch. With the switch replaced, the washer will drain on its own. This will save anyone the trouble of having to bail. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
more than likely the pump needs replacing, first of all remove the outlet drain hose from the the place it discharges and lower it into a bucket,this should allow it to syphon away,you may need to empyt the bucket a few times once the machine is empty you should be able to put it on its spin cycle once it has spun locate and remove the filter to remove any objects or lint, fill machine with warm water and try to drain and spin via the programme,if this do not work fit a new pump
Posted on May 29, 2009
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