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My cutting plate came off and sheared the 3 keepers off the plate i am not sure what function they play and can i simply bolt the plate back on without them

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No it willsshear the crank rod

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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I have a snapper m1529e snow blower and need shear bolts for the auger, I was told by a local mechanic that it used a 1/4 inch machine bolt. I am worried that this might not protect the machine. Thanks...


Yes, 1/4" bolts should work fine. Just make sure they are grade 1 or 2, if you use say a grade 5 or 8 bolt, the bolt will not shear thus defeating the purpose of a shear pin. For what it's worth I have the same snowblower as you. When I found no one locally carried them, I resorted to to using regular bolts. I have had them shear just like they should when you hit something by accident. No damage to the machine after 3 years...and yes, someone in the family tried a grade 8 bolt on their ls and it basically destroyed the auger...

Feb 28, 2013 | Garden

1 Answer

What is the difference between the angle cut blades and the shear cut blades on my bolt cutter?


angle cut blades have the cutter head angled at 25-35 degrees for easier insertion into tight spots. Shear cut blades are light normal scissor blades

Jan 16, 2013 | Cutter Tools

1 Answer

How do I install brass bushings in a sproket bracket on QA-42A snow thrower for a cub cadet


Hello, How to replace the auger drive belts on a MTD,Yard Machine,and other two stage snow blower,that don't allow enough room to slide belts between the pulleys.
1.Tilt machine up on front end to remove the bottom frame cover,there should be six screws to remove,tilt back up right.
2.Remove the chute crank from the left handle and from the shoot.
3.Remove the black belt cover,there should be three screws.
4.Remove the support guide bracket,that the cable is running through,and remove cable end from idler pulley arm.(Note ,on some machines the pulley can be adjusted by loosing and move pulley towards the belt, than retighten.)
5.Remove belts from upper pulleys. (hint if there is a bolt holding the pulleys on it is easier to remove the bolt and slide the pulleys off to be able to remove the belts.)
6.Remove the six bolts and nuts holding the front half to the back half together,slide front part out to be able to remove old belts and install new belts. (hint make sure you get the new belt under the belt keeper on the bottom.)
7.Reassembly in reverse.
8.Set of two belts 0.312x34.75, part number 954-040B, $30.28

This first part is for replacing belts.
To remove the auger assembly completely follow these steps.
1.After removing the belts,and separating the two halves, remove the bolt holding the pulleys on,pay attention how bolt comes off and the way the washers are on be sure and put back on the way they come off.
2.Remove the pulleys and make note how they come off of the adapter pulley.remove pulley note how comes off.
3.Remove the bolts and nuts on the side of the housing.
4. Pull the auger out and place on work bench,making note how the end parts come off.
5.Remove the shear bolts to get and slide augers off, be sure and mark which way they turn as not put back on backwards.
6.You can access the auger gears by removing the bolts,to make repair.
7.also check the ball bearing in the rear housing where the auger shaft goes through to make sure it is not egg shape,if egg shaped needs replacing.will cause belts not to stay on and jump off the pulleys.
8.Check the end hex flange bearing (the plastic piece) to see if it is out of round,if is replace it.
9.Also you can download your manual if you don't have one depending on your model and number.and also you can check the shear pins in the augers if the above is not the problem.
hope this helps,,any comments welcome,thank you. @@

Feb 15, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

WENT TO USE MY SNOWBLOWER LAST NIGHT (4CYCLE) AND THE BLADES DID NOT WORK BUT IT DID INGAGE. cOULD IT BE FROZEN?


it is broken shear bolts ( look for a hole about 3-4 mm wide in the center of the auger. I work at a John Deere implement and there is a lot of people that don't know simply because the salesman doesn't tell them about the risk of breaking shear bolts. you will be blowing snow then all of a sudden it pushes hard. go to the dealer where you got it from, or even fleet farm and shear bolts are at the most ten bucks

Feb 02, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

How to open super jolly's base plate


  1. Disassemble the plastic container and douser cover
  2. Disassemble uper burr holder and take out 3 springs too.
  3. Disassemble the legs of grinder and bottom plate
  4. Disassemble the wires and swich(before disassembling be sure that you marked each wire)
  5. Unscrew the bottom plate of electro motor (2 screws you live just released)
  6. Take one METRIC BOLT M8 30 mm length and screw it in middle of bottom plate(it will pull the plate out slowly)
  7. Block the lower burr holder and unscrew the bolt in it. Instead that bolt you put one longer bolt (3-4cm longer)
  8. You stabilize the base of grinder and start to hit with hammer the bolt, each hitting will pull it bit down, you should move it 12 mm lower to get it out.
  9. Once when you have it out you can also change the bearings at your grinder not only revising the lower plate.
PS: Carefully with the pin in axis, it comes out easy, also it goes through bearing with rotor together. - I think i prescribed all stages of demoting the grinder motor(except windings) if you go for mounting with this manual only back ways i think you will succeed to put it back in function.

Jan 05, 2011 | Mazzer Coffee-grinder SUPER JOLLY Electric

1 Answer

Procedure for changing bent r rear axle on 1997


if it has the four bolts that have a flange piece on it also then its just a unbolt and pull one.another sign of the unbolt/pull type is there is no removable cover on the back of the diff. i never undo nothing but the 4 bolts. i leave twn in but real loose so when i yank on the axle it wont break nothing when it cuts loose all of a sudden.

May 30, 2010 | 1997 Toyota T100

4 Answers

Belt keep coming off cub cadet 1042, all parts on deck have been replaced with new parts & still the belt comes off every time


my cub cadet used to throw the cutter belt too....till i took the drastic step of adding a bit more tension to the belt. this was achieved by drilling another hole on either side of the chassis about 1 3/4 inches to the rearward of the machine and moving the lift arms to the new holes. Viola, more belt tension, and furthermore there is now no interference between the tensioner and the rearmost run of the belt.

Oct 22, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

Rear brake drums won't come off


Try penetrating oil around center hole and 8mm holes if rust is present. Then, pound hard on the radius edge between face of drum and top/bottom braking surface.

If no luck, you might need to back off the shoe adjustment rod located behind an oblong hole on the bottom of the backing plate.

Youll see small teeth if you view through the oblong hole(might have a rubber plug in it)
Put a screwdriver in the hole and try to ratchet the teeth in one direction or another (it will only go in one direction) once you see which way it moves, usually with a corresponding "click", Stop........you need to turn it the other way.

To do this, you must take a small thin screwdriver or ice pick and poke it in past the small toothed gear until it hits a surface. Put more pressure and you should feel it move.
This is the ratcheting arm that kept you from moving the gear in the other direction.

Now you should be able to turn the toothed wheel in the opposite direction to loosen the brake shoes from the braking surface of the drum.

The 8mm bolt holes are there to help pull the drum, but, if the shoes have worn into the drum a lot, it leaves an edge on the inner edge of the drum which wont let the drum slide past the shoes, which is why you need to back off the adjustment rod to pull the shoes away from the drum to allow it to be removed.

If all else fails, the shoes are held against the backing plate by two pins, held in place by small coil springs and keeper plates.

If you look at the backing plate, you should see two small circular discs at the roughly 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. These are the heads of the keeper pins which hold the shoes on to the backing plate. Take a small and preferably sharp chisel, and shear these small discs off the backing plate. Now, you should be able to pry off the drum and survey the damage. You will need to replace these parts. Ask your parts dealer for a "spring kit" for the rear drum brakes of your particular vehicle.

Hope this helps

Aug 17, 2009 | 2001 Suzuki Swift

1 Answer

How do you get to the bearings


  1. Disassemble the plastic container and douser cover
  2. Disassemble uper burr holder and take out 3 springs too.
  3. Disassemble the legs of grinder and bottom plate
  4. Disassemble the wires and swich(before disassembling be sure that you marked each wire)
  5. Unscrew the bottom plate of electro motor (2 screws you live just released)
  6. Take one METRIC BOLT M8 30 mm length and screw it in middle of bottom plate(it will pull the plate out slowly)
  7. Block the lower burr holder and unscrew the bolt in it. Instead that bolt you put one longer bolt (3-4cm longer)
  8. You stabilize the base of grinder and start to hit with hammer the bolt, each hitting will pull it bit down, you should move it 12 mm lower to get it out.
  9. Once when you have it out you can also change the bearings at your grinder not only revising the lower plate.
PS: Carefully with the pin in axis, it comes out easy, also it goes through bearing with rotor together. - I think i prescribed all stages of demoting the grinder motor(except windings) if you go for mounting with this manual only back ways i think you will succeed to put it back in function.

Jul 08, 2009 | Mazzer Coffee-grinder SUPER JOLLY Electric

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