Question about Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

Oven/Range almost new, will heat up one time for several hours correctly, then shortly after if heated again shows F1 code on digital clock readout and shuts off heating. Please tell me what is wrong or needs replacing

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  • kccapnhn Nov 05, 2010

    Model # JES8750AAB

  • kccapnhn Nov 06, 2010

    Thank you much, this gives me confirmation I was
    on track before spending on clock.

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  • Maytag Master
  • 81,342 Answers

Hello, in order to look this code up I need the exact model number of the appliance, thanks

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

  • Marvin
    Marvin Nov 05, 2010

    Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad oven control touch pad.


    1. Disconnect power to stove
    2. Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).
    3. Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide.
    4. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.
    5. Turn power back on to stove.
    6. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep.
    7. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.
    8. If after approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.
      NOTE: Some models incorporate the touch pad and the clock as one part.
      * We have seen a few of the newer Maytag ranges with a F1 fault code and the problem was the oven temp sensor, check carefully the wires to and from the oven temp sensor!!

  • Marvin
    Marvin Nov 05, 2010

    If the clock and the control panel are one piece with no ribbon connector then the control must be repulsed

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I have a maytag range/oven model mgs5770adb and keep getting an F1 code on the display


The F1 code indicates that:

a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (1.e., not cooking) mode or

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.

Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor gotsta be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.

Sep 23, 2010 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

The digital panel is displaying -F1- and will not


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Jun 15, 2010 | Whirlpool 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

Kitchen aid wall oven Model YKEBS2780B1 SHOWS


Hello,4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock(ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
2. Test relay contact operation
3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor F3

Thanks

May 26, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

The oven isn't working and it says FO in red letters


GE / Hotpoint / RCA
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC


Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock


Amana / Caloric
Oven Fault Codes
Type with display - glass link ERC
Display Condition Remedy
F0 No Safety Signal Replace adapter board
F1 No Safety Signal Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F7 Shorted Touch Panel Replace Glass Panel
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch
FF Lock Error Check switch and motor
ERC III - Relay board with separate board/push buttons
F0 Shorted Push Pad Replace Push Pad
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace touch pad
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch


The following diagnostic chart Does not apply to Whirlpool 'Y' line products. If the model number contains a Y near the end of the number, DO NOT use this chart.
Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Roper
Oven Fault Codes
Ovens with 4 digit displays
Display Condition Remedy
F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure Disconnect panel for 30 seconds. if error re-appears then replace control
F1-E1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2-E0 Shorted Keypad Replace Keypad
F3-E0 Sensor or Sensor Fuse Open Replace Sensor or Fuse
F3-E1 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F3-E2 Oven over heat Replace Sensor
F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
F5-E0 Door Error Check Door
F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
Ovens with 2 Digit Displays
F0 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Problem with time keeping circuit Reset Time or cooking operation and check for proper ground
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace ERC
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch and latch circuit


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Dec 18, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

I HAVE A JENNAIR ELECTRIC OVEN AND PUT IT ON SELF CLEAN, SET IT FOR 2 HOURS, AND THE DOOR AUTOMATICALLY LOCKED. AFTER TWO HOURS, F1 AND A BEEP CAME ON AND NOW, FOUR HOURS LATER, THE OVEN IS COOL, THOUGH...


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
#$%^

Nov 01, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...

1 Answer

F1 message on Kenmore oven


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Sep 14, 2009 | Kenmore 30172 / 30174 / 30179 Gas Single...

1 Answer

The top oven beeps and an F1 is displayed in red where the clock is located, What to do? Can I still use the oven and clean it?


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
!@#

Jul 04, 2009 | GE JTP48 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Range control panal flashes F1, oven no longer works.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
$%^TG

Jan 14, 2009 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

1 Answer

F1 keeps flashing...


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
*&^ty

Dec 13, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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