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Keeps blowing fuse ref# s152501 on switch on chassis CUC1935 Please Help Joe

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  • Jose60 Jun 14, 2008

    the fuse in question is in the secondary the mains fuse is ok. I checked for shorts in the outputs both vert and horiz. the fuse that blows is supplying volts to the horizontal drive sect. I hope this info is of help to you. Thanks Joe.



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The resistance from the powersupply is falling due to that the fuse is blowing

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 14, 2008

    There can be a number of reasons for this problem of your Projection TV, most of the time the power
    supply unit or ic is faulty.
    I would suggest you to contact a good technician which will rectify the circuit and will replace necessary capacitors and diode's.

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 14, 2008

    The best place to start troubleshooting would be the standby power
    supply. If bad, there won't be any voltage for the remote or
    microprocessor circuit to work with. There could be what’s called a
    switch mode power supply, or one that uses a low voltage transformer.
    If the fuse was black and open, there's most likely a short in the set
    that has made the fuse blow.

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 14, 2008

    To stop any further damage to the set (just in case there is a short
    somewhere), would be to use a pigtail light bulb socket with a 100 watt
    light bulb in it. The light bulb will absorb the current that’s being
    drawn from the short in the set. Attach some clip leads to the end of
    the pigtail, and with the plug out of the wall, clip the pigtail wires
    across the blown fuse. Once connected, plug in the set. If the light
    bulb glows bright and then goes dim right away, there is likely no
    short in the set, or at leat it’s not a dead short.
    measure a capacitor around the power supply area and see if you have
    voltage. No? You may have a burnt printed circuit trace or open power
    transformer. You can replace the fuse and see if you got lucky with
    only having a blown fuse. If the light bulb glowed bright and stayed
    bright, there’s a dead short in the set. Sometimes there’s a large, low
    value rectangle resistor called a current limiter located right after
    the fuse. This will sometimes open up instead of the fuse. If the
    resistor is open and the fuse is not, you can then install the light
    bulb across the resistor IF, and only if, the value of this current
    limiter is 20 ohms or less.

  • Maanita Chadha
    Maanita Chadha Jun 14, 2008

    The Main Power Supply
    The next step in
    troubleshooting would be to check the main power supply. First, check
    the bridge rectifiers. A bridge rectifier could be a combination of
    four silicon diodes or a square rectangle type package. Use the diode
    function on your multimeter and see if there’s a short across one of
    them, or perhaps between the pins of the rectifier block. If there’s no
    short there, measure across the main B+ filter capacitor, but make sure
    you discharge it as described earlier! If there’s a dead short there,
    take out the cap or disconnect one end to see if it’s shorted. If not,
    reinstall or resolder, then measure the transistors and diodes around
    the power supply area. If you don’t find a short with one of those
    components, go to the horizontal/sweep power supply circuit.
    The Horizontal Output Transistor & Flyback
    locate the horizontal output transistor. This is found very close to,
    or next to, the horizontal output transformer (also known as the
    flyback). The flyback should be on an aluminum heat sink, or on the
    side of the metal chassis. Disconnect or unsolder two of the three legs
    of the transistor. Measure it with your meter, or plug in the set with
    the light bulb attached across the fuse.
    If the transistor is
    shorted, or the light bulb doesn’t glow bright anymore, replace the
    transistor and plug back in. If the light bulb glows bright again, you
    must replace both the flyback and horizontal output transistor
    simultaneously. In some cases this will fix the set, but sometimes
    there are multiple problems with a set.
    Go to where the flyback
    is, and start measuring the diodes and capacitors on the flyback
    itself. If you don't find any shorts there, it could be a shorted
    vertical output IC, a shorted sound IC, a shorted disc capacitor in the
    Hi Voltage/sweep circuit, or in rare cases, a shorted capacitor or

    Final Thoughts
    You will find the short in the
    board if you're persistent. Just remember, do not replace the fuse if
    the bulb stayed bright, as this could cause additional damage to the
    set. I have experienced a few occasions where lighting has hit a cable
    or electric line outside, and damaged every IC in the set.
    fixes described here are general, common problems that occur when a
    television set goes dead. Remember that working inside of a television
    should never be taken lightly, and that safety should always come first.



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