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GE Microwave Mod# JVM1850CH02 Not heating, Changed out Magnetron and still not heating.

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  • Jerry Kerns Nov 05, 2010

    Thank You! I will check that.

  • Jerry Kerns Nov 05, 2010

    Thank You! I will check that.

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Use a multi meter and check if the magnetron is getting power

most likely its not,,

see where it connects to the main circuit board ? there is a large capacitor there, replace it..

Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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Microwave functions normally apart from heating food,fan runs and table rotates but heating does not occur.


A blown fuse near the magnetron will cause that no heating. However, if the fuse is good a magnetron tube is already defective, hence no heating with normal operation on other function.
Replace magnetron tube with similar rating and size.
Thanks for asking.

Jun 25, 2011 | Vacuums

2 Answers

Oster microwave model OM1Z01E0VG is not heating. The light comes on and the plate rotates and it sounds like it is working, but it does not cook/heat.



If your unit is under warranty, you should return it to the store or on to the authorized service center. but if not try to follow this simple steps.. (1). unplug the unit from the wall socket. (2) remove the protective cover. (3) check the high voltage fuse if blown or open... its located near the high voltage transformer.. (4) check the high voltage capacitor.. make sure you discharged it first to avoid injury... (5) if the high voltage fuse blown or and the high voltage capacitor is leaky, open, or shorted. you should replace it w/ the same exact value. (6) in rare circumtances a blown high voltage fuse opten cause by a shorted magnetron tube and a shorted or open high voltage diode could be the problem... just replace it w/ the same exact value to avoid injury... Ty

Jun 17, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

I have a G.E 1.0 Microwave Model JES1039WF02, It has power on the panel but I see a message that says -F3- It will not start or do anything when the buttons are pressed. There is power running to it....


If there is no heating please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron.
So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in the cabin, if so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use an jet air to clean off.
Make sure that the program controller is working if not check power - step down supply, the pads are responding- if not faulty pads- or the door switches, if contact is not through the microwave will not work.

Now keeping clear of the microwave, switch on, use a cup of water inside to test.
If you notice any sparks shut off as the magnetron or the main HT capacitor can be faulty. replace with same type.
If there is heating without any issues, you can use the microwave safely

May 17, 2011 | Vacuums

2 Answers

Microwave has power but won't heat


Hello,

Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heat

Power Diode

A diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat and you will hear a buzzing noise. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a diode

NOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.

Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.

A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.

With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.

A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.

Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.

High Voltage Capacitor

A capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating but you are hearing a buzzing or humming noise. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.

Magnetron

A defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating, but you can hear a buzzing noise. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.

Testing a magnetron

NOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.

There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:

TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.

TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.

Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diode

http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitor

I hope the above is helpful.

Good luck.

Mar 23, 2011 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Cleaned inside of microwave with all purpose cleaner, now it runs but does not heat up food.


Remove the plug from the power point and make sure that you completely dry the inside of the microwave with a clean dry cloth , keep the door open for drying. If by any chance the liquid or the water has seeped into the magnetron port then it might have clogged and damaged the unit.
Please check this section inside the chamber and dry this soft spot fully before you can try to switch on the microwave.
If this wont work then check the fuse inside the unit and the thermal cut off switch if this has tripped.

Mar 16, 2011 | Vacuums

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore Elite Ultrawave Microwave Hood Combination and am getting an F9 fault code. I hear a rythmic intermittant buzzing, the unit shuts off and the F9 appears on the screen. I have pulled open...


F9 code can mean something different depending upon the particular model.....
1.) IF your Microwave uses "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology"...Then either the Magnetron has failed or the Inverter board has failed OR maybe the control board has failed (HUH?).
2.) IF your Microwave does NOT use "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology" then one or more of the door switches has failed.

** "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology" **
I'll explain a few things about this wonderful technology...
The control board (accepts the pushbutton commands) has to talk to the inverter board to tell it how much power should be applied to the magnetron. The inverter board will then power the magnetron and inform the control board if the magnetron is working OK.
If there is something wrong with the magnetron or inverter board or a there is a communication breakdown between the control board and the inverter board...WA-LA-----F9----

A pretty reliable test for the Magnetron is to operate the oven and listen for a ticking sound 5-6 times about a second apart. If you can hear the ticking....The magnetron has failed..if no ticking, the control or inverter board failed.

Nov 01, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Hi my microwave is working perfectly ok apart from nothing is being heated is this a simple repair solution or ?


Hi , that seems the biggest problem for a micro wave. But not to worrry it can be a line fuse to the Magnetron. SSo disconnecct the power and check for a large fuse. if open replace. If not check on a high voltage capacitor fitted near to the magnetron, this can be faulty. replace .
there is also a temperature cut off sensor, it can be faulty and cut circuit off
Please take care not to touch any live parts, use a cup of water inside for trials.

Sep 18, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Sharp microwave carousel R330J 1100 watt. When the heating cycle is started the microwave light flickers on and off and there is a clicking sound. Initially high voltage fuse blown. replaced fuse and...


Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

1st the model number appears to be incomplete. Not an issue at this point but will be if you need parts.

You most likely have an interlock problem with one of the 2 door switches or the door interlock mechanism is broken.
There are 3 safety interlock micro switches activated by the door. One for the light, one for the Magnetron and one for the control panel power. If the problem persists with the Magnetron disconnected. The Magnetron safety interlock micro switch is supposed to blow the fuse if the unit is energized with the door open. Check continuity of your door interlocks. Pat particular attention to the NC (normally closed), C (Common) and NO (Normally Open) contacts.
NC should read to C and when the switch is activated read open at which time the NO contact will read to C.

I really suspect a bad microswitch.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Aug 21, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Microwave light turns on makes noise no heat


If it's a bad magnetron and the unit is just a few years old call the
manufacture. they will replace the mag. you pay the labor. If it's bad transformer/control board cheaper to buy a new one.

Aug 11, 2010 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Sharp R-1480. Microwave would not start - jarred door, and it heated and worked. Replaced bottom of the 3 inter-lock door switches. Turns back on - all seems normal. No heat (it does overall sound...


Hi Mark,

It sounds like you have a magnetron problem now or at very least a rectifier that is shorted.

The elevated sound level comes from one of those two components. But since you had a door switch problem I would lean toward the problem being internal to the magnetron. It is common for them to over draw on the circuit going through the door switch before they fail completely.

To test the high voltage components you need a good ohm meter, the magnetron should read under 1 ohm from terminal to terminal and infinite ohms from either terminal to ground. The rectifier or diode should read 0 or low ohms in one direction and high or infinite in the other. BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF BEFORE SERVICING!

Apr 24, 2010 | Vacuums

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