Question about GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
is usually caused by a “stuck-open” fill valve, and the cold water
half of the valve is usually the culprit.
This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let’s take a look at these.
First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***’y. Replace the fill valve.
If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.
Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you’ll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK, but we’re having fun, so let’s continue!
Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now hot)and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate.
This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You’re blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged.
Older Maytags are known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the ‘Corbin’ clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off – 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see ‘gunk’ clogging both the rubber tubing and the ‘spud’ that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID.
It is best cleaned from the inside, which means pulling the cabinet and tub. Not beyond the reach of the handyman, this job does require a special spanner wrench to remove the tub nut, as well as the removal of some other components. I’d probably recommend this one as a job for the pro. An experienced tech will have seen this before and be in and out in an hour or less.
The tank port on these washers is too small - only about 3/8 in. diameter, and hard to clean, even from the inside. Here’s yet another job for the trusty wetvac. We are hopeful that Whirlpool will soon enlarge or baffle these ports to correct this problem - one of very few ‘glitches’ these excellent machines have.
Whatever your brand, if air can’t be blown back through this tube, the port or dome will need cleaning.
If you have no trouble blowing pressure through it remove the tube completely and inspect it carefully. This tube must not have the smallest hole in it, and we sometimes see them worn through or, more often, chewed through by mice. I mention this last because, while it is the least common cause of overflow I see, it does happen and is easily overlooked. We run into this a couple of times each year, usually in the Fall when the mice are looking for a warm winter home.
Also uncommon, sometimes this tube will swell and loosen a bit, leaking air where it attaches to the tank fitting. If you suspect this, or the tube fits very loosely, simply cut 3/4” or so off the end and push it back on.
One last comment on this concerns some newer Frigidaire 27” (wide) machines. These use a piece of tape (!) to secure the pressure tube to the outside of the tank. This tape has to be there (don’t ask me how I know!) or the tube will pull off while spinning, causing flooding. If it has come off, or was removed for service, be sure to replace it. Duct tape will work well; just be sure to clean the tank before attaching to be sure it stays put. Naptha (lighter fluid) will do this well.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
SOURCE: fill will not stop
you may have a problem with your pressure switch. or sometimes they call it the water level switch.
try to use it in the small level and see if it would stop filling around medium or large quantities of water.
if it would stop filling , then replace the water level sensor.
tnx 4 using fixya,
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
A washer that over flows in the fill cycle sounds like a faulty pressure switch. Part # WH12X10069 and 10 on this diagram. If it overfills the tub when the washer is off it's a faulty water valve. Best of luck Ryan
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
try replacing your water selenoid coming in. remember it isnt a mechanical timer it is a computerized timer, so if the selenoid isnt the problem, it might be the computerized timer. computers are very finicky, pain in the a- -!
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
May 01, 2015 | Simpson Washing Machines
Nov 09, 2013 | Washing Machines
Sep 06, 2013 | Washing Machines
Oct 15, 2017 | Washing Machines
Oct 31, 2012 | Washing Machines
Jul 14, 2012 | Washing Machines
Sep 06, 2017 | Kohler Toilet - One Piece with Ingenium...
Sep 29, 2010 | Washing Machines
Oct 18, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
121 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!