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There are numerous temperature sensors on the dryer. Some are near the drum, some could be near the lint filter if it is located inside the dryer door. Try changing these first as they are an in expensive fix. It could also be the heating coils themselves. Highly unlikely it would be the dial, unless the dial was accidentally turned in the wrong direction.
That is probably some burred contacts inside the timer. Most timers cannot be serviced but this timer can be if you are handy and careful. You can file down the contacts in this timer and it will work ok for a while and if it keeps on being intermittant you know you gotta buy a new timer. It is simpler and cheaper just to clean the contacts though.
Check where the dryer vent comes out and make sure that there is a good amount of air coming out. If the fan is blowing, the drum is turning, and there is heat, the likely thing is that the dryer vent is partially blocked. Check the pipe leading out. Bird's nests are not uncommon. The only other thing I can think of is that the door catch is wearing out and the door is popping open, shutting the dryer off mid-cycle. Some dryers will continue to run the timer if the cycle is interrupted and it will appear that the dryer ran its full cycle, but in reality it shut off soon after it started.
It is possible your Cycling Themostat is not working properly. It determines at what temperature to turn heat on and off to maintain a consistent dryer temp. The High Limit Thermostat would turn off the heat but your dryer would still run. That leaves the Thermal Cut Off which is turning off your dryer. It might be faulty and turning off at too low a temp, or it might be doing it's job. In that case something else is wrong. If you can check the exhaust air temperature at the dryer, it should be under 175 degrees. If you are absolutely sure the vent is clear, then replace the Dryer Cycling Thermostat.
Check the dryer breaker pair in the house electrical box. Push off, then on. If the breakers trip immediately, then you have a direct short circuit in the dryer, usually the heating element which involves removing the drum to get at the element(s). If the breakers hold, then try the dryer. If you get heat--ok. If drum turns, but no heat--check with a voltmeter across the two slanted slots in the power socket. You should read ~220 volts AC. If near zero, then one of the breakers is probably bad. Get an electrician to replace the breaker pair.
We should address the heat problem first. If your dryer complaint is "heat seems low" or taking "too long to heat", this is commonly confused for other problems. When in fact, you may really have a "ventillation problem". Do you feel (with hand) alot of hot air pressure coming out the back of the dryer or house vent-line (for dryer)?
I would disconnect and clean the dryer exhaust vent/duct (at wall and machine). Then, while leaving the vent-line disconnected temporaily, test and run your dryer. You may see an signficant improvement.
Does it heat up better?
Do you feel alot of hot air and pressure coming out the back of the dryer?
When connected; do you feel alot of hot air pressure coming out of your house dryer vent?
Electric (Kenmore - 60931) dryer takes forever (several cycles) lately to dry clothes set on high heat (actual heat in tub feels low though). There are no obstructions in the venting and the 240 volt connection is fine. The timer rotates the dial (timer motor working). Help!!!