Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher

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Hi f1 label is lit up in red on both washers and is making a alarm sound wont turn off

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F1 = The flood switch has been activated for more than six seconds.

The flood switch is in the bottom of the whole unit, so it will have water in the tray of the carcass.
It will dry out eventually (or you can pull out the unit and tip the unit to empty the water), then the unit will stop beeping. However, it will just do it again unless you address the cause, which is any of the following:

Inlet hose to inlet valve connection loose
Inlet valve body leak
Damage to the fill or drain hoses
Heater plate damage (chipped enamel)
Seals/O Rings (pinched, contaminated or poor join)
Dispenser (seal, diverter valve or weld leak)
Lid area (lid motors not functioning correctly, lid off yoke or foreign object interfering with lid seal).

It's most often the last one.
A 603 drawer can leak - and cause an F1 - just during normal use.
Because the lid comes down after shutting the draw, if the user has stacked a pan or utensil in the draw that almost touches the top, it can prevent the lid from coming down and making the seal. So it will leak just for that wash.

This scenario never happened with the 601 models because they didn't have a lid that came down to make a seal. (They solved one problem but caused another!)

Alternatively...
On a 603 model, the lids get wound down when you close the draw. It's possibly a dead lid-seal motor. There are 2 worm-drive motors on either side, connecting to the lid via a yoke. F&P cocked up with the earlier 603 and used poor quality motor drives. These earlier inferior ones are beige in colour, whereas F&P recommend replacing with a superior black coloured drive. If yours are beige, it's quite likely that you might need to replace both or just one.



Posted on Nov 05, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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