Question about Kenmore 800 7983 Dryer

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Kenmore 800 series dryer - how do I know if it is the themostat or heating element? Are they easy to replace my a not-so-handyman?

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  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    how to change out heating element of kenmore 800



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If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

  • dj edwards Nov 06, 2010

    Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, was not successful - I did the following:
    1) checked the electrical outlet - is 220
    2) checked the resistance of the heater element - is 11
    3) checked the resistance of the High Limit Thermostat - is 0
    4) attempting to check the resistance of the TCO, I broke off the terminal, so....
    5) had to buy a new HL Thermostat and TCO (package deal), so installed both new TCO and HL Thermostat
    --> Still Not Heating. Any ideas?
    btw, the Model Number of the Kenmore dryer is: 110.67862600

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Nov 08, 2010

    I apologize for the late response. I just now received your reply. As per your troubleshooting so far, it appears the service voltageat the receptacle, the heating element, hi-limit thermostat and TCO are all good at this point. The only other possiblities that would cause a no heat problem on this model dryer would be a defective power cord, interconnecting wiring problem, the control board (part number W10116565) in the operator console, or the centrifugal switch on the drive motor has failed.

    If you did not check the power source voltage at the terminal block in the back of the dryer (where the power cord attaches to the dryer), I would advise you to UNPLUG the dryer and position the unit so that you can access the rear panel. Remove the access cover where the power cord is attached. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage measurement across the RED and BLACK leads. You should read 220-240VAC. If not, you have a bad power cord. Replacement cords can be purchased at any hardware store. Just make sure you purchase one with the same current rating (usually 25 to 35 amps) and the same plug configuration.

    NOTE: If the wires are NOT color coded, the outer two wires (LEFT and RIGHT) are the HOT leads. The center wire is Neutral or Ground.

    If the power is good at the terminal block, then the problem is internal. Inspect the wires leading from the terminal block to ensure they are broken, frayed or burned. The next step would be to open the operator console and inspect the control board for any obvious signs of burned or blown components. These boards typically fail through normal wear and tear. Even if the board shows no obvious signs of failure, it could still be defective (wiring diargram).

    It appears that the centrifugal switch for the drive motor is internal to the motor on this model and cannot be replaced as a separate item. If defective, the entire drive motor would have to be replaced.

    I would recommend checking all the simple items, first to rule out all other possiblities before assuming a centrifugal switch problem. In the majority of the cases, the control board, or interconnecting wiring is the culprit.

    There is usually a wiring diagram included with the appliance that can assist you with troubleshooting. The diagram should be inlcuded inside the operator console. The console on this model can be opened by inserting a putty knife under the console at each FRONT corner and push in. This will release the retaining clips and allow the console to lift up. If the wiring diagram does not prvide you with emough information, you can purchase a do-it-yourself repair manual (part number 787207 from the manufacturer. You can inquire about the availability at 1-800-252-1698.

    If you need further assistance, please let me know.



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