Question about Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin
Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite H3t washer
What a blessing to find others with the same exact problem. Had a call in to Kenmore service center and was having to wait 8 days till a repair man could show up. Service call would have been at least $110 for the man to show up at the door. After discovering this website my wife and I are proud to announce that we found two (our 2 year olds) socks and one of my wife's nursing pads clogging up the filter along with some thread and a little gunk. Cleaned it out and in 10 minutes from start to finish we were done. Ran the machine twice and find it is running just like new. Like other postings here we found that a 45 minute wash took 90 minutes because the machine never could spin out on the first try. We thought it had problems balancing out the load of wash. Now it spins out quickly and without wasting time. I think of how much extra money it cost us to run the machine like this. Also, while we were sitting in our laundry room admiring the return of our washer I took a look at our complimentary Kenmore Elite HE3t dryer. Everyone who reads this far please do the following:
1. Unscrew the bottom panel of the dryer (unplug machine first)
2. Unscrew the black metal chute that goes from the lint catcher down to the blower (two sheet metal screws) pullout and clean.
3. Unscrew entire lint catcher from inside. (5 screws total) and clean.
5. One more step to really get all the lint includes pulling the entire machine out and removing the outside vent from the base of the machine. There is a 2 foot pipe to be cleaned out that extends from the other side of the blower.
I could not believe how much lint had bypassed the lint screen and had created a wall in front of the blower. I had previously checked the vent pipe leading to the outside wall and found no buildup whatsoever so I figured everything was okay. Was I ever wrong. I had found that the dryer (which is only 4 and 1/2 years old) was now taking 59 minutes to dry at normal temp instead of
the 41 minutes to dry when we first bought the machine. After I performed this service the dryer was back to drying the clothes in 41 minutes time or even less!!! In the future I will do this service, as described above, on a yearly basis. Once again we were wasting energy because we did not do this simple maintenance.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Unless your front loader is set firmly on concrete
and leveled to perfection, the force of a heavy wash load spinning in
excess of 1000rpm will create a bit of vibration and noise.A firm footing is your best defense against to much movement.
Also due to the earlier movements during the spin cycle, the shocks that are used to dampen the spin cycle might have been broken or damaged.
If the problem persists inspite of proper levelling, please do check for the shocks or might have them replaced them for good.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
I thought I had posted you a solution but not sure if you have gotten it. Anyway here I go again. To inspect your coupling you need to drop the pump and the motor so that you can get a good look at the coupling it consists of 3 pieces. Go to www.repairclinic.com enter model number and click on the first part you see to get additional images. If any of the prongs are broken replace the entire unit. You can call me at 417-926-0106 if you'd like.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.
See the following:
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.
Posted on Mar 14, 2010
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