Anyone know the Torx screw size to remove cover from a DM 273 iron. The screw is recessed in a narrow 2 inch hole.
It appears this is top secret information at Rowenta as I have not been able to get an answer from them. Thanks for any info.
Frank the Crank
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1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.
2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".
3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!
4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.
5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.
6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).
7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...
8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.
9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.
10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).
11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.
If you have hard water, there will be a buildup of minerals where the rubber gasket on the water tank meets the steam chamber that is built into the sole plate. This will make the rubber gasket surface become hard and no longer seak to the team chamber, resulting in water leaking from the tank onto the outside of the iron.
If you are reasonably skilled with tools and have a Torx T20 driver, you can disassemble the iron and remove the rubber gasket between the tank and the steam chamber and soak it in vinegar to remove the mineral scale. First remove the three Torx screws visible at the rear of the iron and gently pry off the gray rear cover plate. This will expose two screws holding the rear end of the sole plate. Remove those two screws. Then gently pry off the stainless steel nose piece on the front of the iron; this is the curved piece that says "high precision" on it. This will then expose the screw that holds the front of the sole plate on the handle. Remove thqt screw. Pull the black connector at the rear of the iron off the two rods to which it is attached, and you can move the sole plate away from the handle. The rubber piece in the handle that is sort of oval shaped and about 2 inches long is the gasket that is probably causing the leak. Gently remove it and soak it in vinegar to remove the scale, and remove the scle from the round hole where it meets the steam chamber in the sole plate. .When they are clean, reassemble the gasket onto the handle and the sole plate onto the handle, connecting the electrical connections, and replace the screws, It is not simple, but it is doable.
Most high end appliances (like Rowenta Irons) are made so repairs like that can be done. I haven't played with that model, but I did replace a cord on my Norelco. The torx screwdrivers you are looking for can be purchased, and are often found at either specialty electronic stores (not the average Radio Shack), automotive stores and quite readily online. They are also known as Torx Security bits or Torx Safety bits. Most appliances are made with those screws to prevent the average person from having a go at trying to fix it, but, if you feel comfortable enough with the electronics (even just to look for a loose connection), the bits are available and usually at a fairly decent price.
it is probably a "tamper-proof' Torx head screw and you will need to get a set of tamper-proof Torx bits. Be certain the tamper-proof Torx bit will fit into a bit holder shaft ssmall enough in diameter to fit into any recessed holes that the screws are currently in.
I found out that you do not need to remove the security torx screws (you can get a set from Kragen's Auto Supply or Harbor Freight Tools); don't mean to advertise, but they have decent prices for any "Do It Yourselfer' arsenal." Use a wooden popsicle stick and gently pry the soft rubber cover from the front (on either side) toward the cord end, just enough to access the trigger/control switch assy from the top. Good luck and keep in touch.