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Whirlpool Electric Dryer stop working

I have an electric whirlpool dryer that stopped working suddenly. The model number is LER5600JQ0. I already disconnected and reconnected the dryer, checked the breaker, checked the start button and cycle button. Any ideas or suggestions? Does this type of dryer has a reset button some where? I also checked the lint filter and exhaust. Thanks.

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  • BABIEGIRL Jul 26, 2008

    I HAVE BEEN DOING ALOT OF CLOTHES, EVERYTHING SOUNDS GOOD, HEATED UP PROPERLY, THEN BOOM THE THIRD LOADS JUST STOPPED, LIGHT STILL ON IN SIDE CAN HEAR THE TIMER TICKING, JUST WHEN YOU CLOSE DOOR AND HIT THE POWER KNOB AND NOTHING THE DRYER IS ONLY 5 YEARS OLDS. ANY SUGGESTIONS ANYONE?

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  • 14 Answers

Could be a bad motor , or the starter on the motor.?? if you can hear the motor running then go for a new belt..

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

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small_8_20.jpg For a detailed Dryer illustration, click below.

redarrow.gif Gas Whirlpool Style Version 1
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redarrow.gif Gas Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Gas GE Style
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 1
redarrow.gif Electric Whirlpool Style Version 2
redarrow.gif Electric Maytag Style
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Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

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I have an electric whirlpool dryer that stopped working suddenly. The model number is LER5600JQ0. I already disconnected and reconnected the dryer, checked the breaker, checked the start button and cycle...


The problem you describe is usually caused by a thermal fuse intended to shut the dryer motor down and keep it off because of a problem with air flow within the dryer.

The following process will allow you to test the thermal fuse and replace it if you find it open.

Unplug unit and turn off gas if gas model. Check to be sure you have 240 Volts at wall outlet.

Most parts likely to fail on electric dryers are inside the rear cover. Heater is on right inside can, safety thermostat on lower left of can, High limit thermostat (non-resettable) higher left of can. On the blower housing to the left are the operating thermostat and, in some models, a thermal fuse (white plastic). ALL can be continuity checked easily. Always disconnect wire on one side of what you are testing. One will likely be open. Replace the component that fails the continuity test.

Replacing the heater, if necessary, can be done by disconnecting the wires at the lower left of the heater can on right. There will be a screw on each side edge of the lower half of the can. Remove the two screws and pull off the back lower half of the heater can and reverse the above process to install the new heater.

The thermal fuse or high limit thermostat failure generally points to a reduction of air flow due to SOME blockage either inside the dryer or in the vent pipe leading out of the house. If you find either of these parts bad be sure to check the vents after replacing parts to ensure the same parts won't fail again.

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