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The thermostat switch on my old Fasco heater is fused togather and I need to replace it. It has this number stamped on it "AP 22" and it needs a screw mount at the base of the shaft that turns the heater on and adjusts the heat level. Is there a replacement available? GHK at cgkramer@windstrream.net

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Therinnaiguy
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SOURCE: Fahrenheat 4000 watt wall mounted heater shuts off and needs reset

Sounds like a bad temperature control switch. If it looks like it can be replaced, check with Johnstone or Grainger Supply company to match it up. Google it for their websites.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

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Buffalo12980
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SOURCE: fahrenheat wall unit

your on-off switch is faulty - need to replace it.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: Electric baseboard heater

You need a meter, it will be hard without this! If you have 220v in the wall, then think of it like this; each wire is 120v. Test to each other, you get 220v. The thermostat is a double pole, you said. So think of it like this, its an adjustable temperature controlled switch that lets electricity through at the temp. you set it at. If you have 120v from one wire connected to one end of the element, and the other 120v connected to the other end of the element, then it will work. DO NOT CONNECT THE 120V TOGETHER. IT MUST GO THROUGH THE ELEMENT FIRST. The thermostat should be between the power from the wall and the element, to control the temperature.

Posted on Jan 09, 2008

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Thermostat will not come on, therefore unit will not come on


Your thermostat is probably wired directly into the furnace to supply the 24V to power the stat. You have to make sure you're getting 120V into the primary side of the transformer, and 24V out of the secondary side. If you've got voltage in and nothing out replace the transformer with one of the same voltage, and same or higher VA rating. If you don't have 120V in then start checking backwards starting with power in/out of the door switch, then back to the unit disconnect switch, and back to the breaker if necessary. If you've got 24V out of the secondary go check to see you've got 24V at the thermostat between the R and C terminals, if you do the thermostat is bad. As with any electrical wiring make sure you've got good connections on all wiring terminations. Good luck, if you need an explanation of how to check the power in and out of the transformer let me know!

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"D", when refering to an electric motor, is a dimension; it is the distance from the 'bottom' of the motor to the center of the shaft. I'm not sure why you would need it but if you do, sit the motor on a flat surface and then measure from that surface to the center of a shaft and you'll have the 'D'.

Your Fasco motor was made for Greenheck...google the model number and several sources come up such as this one: When searching use "Fasco 7190-2773" as the search phrase...

http://www.emotorpro.com/greenheck-115-volt-1100-rpm-oem-fan-motor-fasco-7190-2773---304970.aspx

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No the top thermostat is the first place I would start to replace. They run about 14.00 more than likely it isn't controling right. Turn power supply to water heater off and replace thermostat.

If you was getting scalding hot and then turning cold without tripping the thermostat it would be the top element working and the bottom one bad.
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HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.

Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

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