I'm building a chopper using a 99 evo engine, and a 93 inner primary. Will a 93 BDL bolt on, 8mm belt drive be comptabile with the 99 engine?

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
2. Negative battery cable Accessory drive belt and tensioner Timing belt cover Right front wheel Right inner splash shield Crankshaft pulley
   
3. Align the timing marks.

1. Removing Timing Belt

1. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt (1).
2. Use an 8mm Allen wrench, and turn the tensioner (2) counterclockwise 1 / 4 turn.
3. Insert a 1 / 8 inch drill bit in the hole (3) to lock the belt tensioner in place.
4. Remove the timing belt (4).
   
   To Install :
   
   
5. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise direction starting at the crankshaft.
   
6. Remove the drill bit to unlock the timing belt tensioner.
   
7. Rotate the crankshaft two complete turns and check that the timing marks align.
   
8. Tighten the tensioner bolt to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
   
9. Reinstall or connect the following:
   
   Crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolt to 81-96 ft. lbs. (110-130 Nm). Right inner splash shield Right front wheel Timing belt cover Accessory drive belt and tensioner Negative battery cable
10. Start the engine and check for proper operation
    

If the primary is leaking on the backside, you must pull the entire primary drive to gain access to the backside.

Start by draining the primary. Disconnect the battery, remove the outer primary cover, jackshaft for the starter, the engine sprocket nut, remove the circlip and remove the clutch rod adjuster, remove the mainshaft nut to get the clutch off (left-handed threads), primary chain adjuster.

From the right side of the bike, remove the exhaust system to gain access to the starter. Remove the starter.

Go back to the left side and remove the bolts that secure the inner primary to the engine and transmission. Once you have all the bolts out, the primary cover should come off easily. If it doesn't, look for a bolt that you may have missed including on the backside.

Now that you have the inner primary cover off, you can replace the seal on the backside of the cover. Install the seal but before you put the cover back on, you must lubricate the inner lips of the seal where it rides on the mainshaft. Many people don't do this and they destroy the seal in the first five seconds of running. Without lubrication, the mainshaft turns so fast that friction will build up heat and damage the seal within the first few seconds of operation before oil can get to the seal. Lubricate that seal.

Now , Since you've got the inner primary off, there are some seals in the transmission that should be replaced as well. I always replace every seal back there everytime I go into that area. Replace the large final drive gear seal as the thin seal between the mainshaft and the final drive gear. I also replace the Quad Seal behind the spacer behind the belt pulley. This will require the special tools necessary to remove the pulley. If you have those, I'd recommend doing this job as well.

As you can see, this is not a job for the faint of heart. It's a complicated job and a lenthy job. This is why the dealer charges so much to do the job. Now, my experience on doing this job is on the earlier Evo and Shovelhead models but the Twin Cam can't be that much different. I'll help as much as I can via this medium but I must recommend that you purchase a service manual. This medium does have it's limitations.

Good Luck
Steve

On a Big Twin, you must pull the entire primary drive off the engine.

Disconnect the battery. Take the outer primary cover off the engine. Remove the compensator (engine sprocket) nut. This nut is very tight and has Loctite thread locker on it. 150-165 foot pounds of torque. You'll need to something to lock the chain up so the engine does not turn while loosening or tightening this nut. We use what is called a "locking bar". Remove the small plate with the screw and locknut in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the mainshaft nut up inside the clutch assembly. It torques to 60-80 foot pounds LEFT HANDED TREADS. Remove the nut from the primary chain tensioner. Grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the primary drive out of the cover.

Take the small screw out of the center of the jackshaft and remove the starter jackshaft.

From the right side of the bike, remove whatever you have to remove to get to the starter, exhaust pipes or whatever. Disconnect the battery cable and the small wire from the starter. Remove the two bolts holding the starter on inner primary cover.

Go back to the left side of the bike. Remove the four bolts that holds the inner primary to the engine, and the two that hold the primary to the transmission. There's one bolt coming in from the backside that has a braided wire on it on the early models. There may be four bolts holding the inner primary onto the transmission. When you have all the bolts out, the primary will come off easily. If it does not seem to want to come off, you may still have a bolt somewhere. Do not beat on the primary cover with even a rubber hammer. It should come right off.

Now, you'll have to remove the rear wheel, rear shocks, belt guards, and remove the swing arm.

As you can see, it's a pretty involved job on a Big Twin.

Good luck
Steve

The final drive belt can be replaced using regular tools for the most part. You will need a way to "Lock" the primary chain so you can retorque the compensator sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut. The clutch hub nut is left handed threads so you'll need a torque wrench that will torque left handed fasteners.

First, disconnect the battery. To start with, you're going to have to pull the outer and inner primary cases to get to the belt. This means that all of the clutch components are going to have to come out. This can be done at home if you have a good (I mean good) air wrench. The compensator sprocket (engine sprocket, right hand thread) is Loctited at 150-165 foot pounds of torque. The clutch hub nut is torqued to 60-80 foot pounds left handed thread. Make sure your torque wrench will work with left handed threaded fasteners. Take the starter "jack shaft" off. You'll have to remove the starter as well to get the inner primary off. On the FLHTC, I think there is one bolt on the back side of the inner primary with a large braided ground ******** it. This bolt must come out if it's there. Without going outside and getting a book, I think there are four bolts on the engine end of the inner primary, the two starter bolts (3/8" socket head bolts), two bolts or nuts on the inside at the transmission end, and the one bolt down low on the backside of the inner primary. The inner primary should come off easily once you get all the bolts out. You should not have to pry it off. If it doesn't come off easily, double check for bolts that you may have missed.

Once you remove the clutch assembly, you will see the clutch release rod sticking out of the mainshaft. If you pull on this shaft and it comes out, you'll have to pull the right side of the transmission cover to reinstall the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing). It's held on by a very small circlip. If the rod pulls out, the circlip has come off and the throwout bearing has fallen down into the bottom of that chrome cover on the right hand side of the transmission.

Once you get the inner primary off, you will see the front belt pulley. Now, you must remover the rear wheel and the swing arm to get the belt off. You'll need to raise the rear wheel and support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. You'll need to support the transmission as well since the swingarm acts as the rear motor mount on the transmission. The rubber bushings in the swingarm may have to be repostioned in order to get the swing arm back into position. I use a piece of theaded rod, a couple of nuts and a couple of large washers. I put the threaded rod through the swing arm with the washers and nuts inbetween the bushings. Use the nuts and washer to "press" the bushing towards the outside of the swingarm, spread the bushings so the swingarm will go back into position.

Now, you can work the old belt out. It is much easier if you can get the front belt pulley off but this requires some special tools. A "pulley locking device" and a front pulley locknut wrench. The front pulley locknut is left handed thread and torques to 125 foot pounds with red Loctite. Work the new belt into position and get the swingarm through it. Do not bend the new belt in a radius any smaller than about 4". Doing so will damage the belt and cause premature breakage. Reinstall everything in reverse order.

When you torque the compensator sprocket and the clutch nut, you will have to use a "locking bar" to lock the engine sprocket and clutch outer drum to prevent them from turning while you torque the two nuts. The engine does not have enough resistance to allow you to torque the nuts. Use two lines of Loctite 271 (red) in the compensator nut (right hand thread) and one line in the clutch hub nut, Left handed thread. Torque to specs I gave you in the second paragraph.

Check for proper clutch operation, proper final belt tension, proper rear brake operation before riding the bike. As you can see, this isn't exactly a "beginner's" job. It is fairly complicated but it can be done by someone with above average mechanical skills. I would suggest purchasing a service manual specifically for the bike you're working on.

it sounds as if your inner primary is not lined up they do have a tendency to wear slots in the holes where they mount to the tranny and motor

you will have to remove the compesator nut and the circlip in the centre of the clutch hub , remove the nut securing the clutch basket on (left hand threads on this nut so be carefull ) remove the little jackshaft nut and stater gear then remove the 2 bolts holding the starter motor on then you will find 6 or so bolts holding the inner primary case on remove these and the inner primary case will come free with a little jiggle. unfortuantaly you will also have to remove the rear wheel ,suspension and swing arm to get the new belt on. hope this helps
regards
bert31000

Its not a complcated procedure. You'll need to open your primary. You install the jackshaft into the starter after its mounted. Make sure you put plenty of ani seize into the bushing on the outer primary and watch out not to over torue the jackshaft bolt - the spec is 5 lbs.

heres a couple of links that will give you more info. One is for a spyke starter install, but all starters install the same. The other is for a belt drive install which talks some about the starter

http://www.wwag.com/downloads/HowToUse/Spyke_en.pdf.

http://www.bikernet.com/bdl/PageViewer.asp?PageID=375