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Kemore electric dyer

Blows cold doesn't get hot when i look for model number i find m83976519 or 86870100 or 68701 all these numbers are on the door

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Click on the following link for information on how to diagnose a dryer "No Heat" problem:

Your correct model number is 110.86870100. Manufactured by Whirlpool. You can find replacement parts at Just type in the model number I provided and follow the links on the next page. The heating circuit components are listed under the "Bulkhead Parts" heading. Use the helpful illustrations for easy part identification. Accessing your heater components are easy on this model dryer. All you have to do in UNPLUG the dryer and remove the back panel. The heating element, thermal cut-out and hi-limit thermostat will be on the right-hand side (facing from the rear). The blower fan assembly will be on the left hand side. Using the parts listing on the Sears website, the following components are suspect if it is a heating circuit problem:

Item 1 (part #279769) Thermal cut-out w/ Hi-limit thermostat - sold as a set and recommended to be replaced at the same time if one or the other is found to be defective.

Item 14 (part #4391960) Heating Element.

Read through the link I provided and follow the steps. Try to rule out the common sense things BEFORE assuming parts are defective. You may want pay particular attention the paragraph explaining proper vent ducting maintenance and installation. If you do not maintain the ducting properly the heating circuits will eventually fail again due to overheating.

Please post back if you have questions and/or require additional assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

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make this steps and fix it. God bless you

Lid Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

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Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly

If the washer stops mid cycle the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

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Water Inlet Valve

If the washer stops mid cycle the water inlet valve cold water side may have failed. Most washers have a cold water rinse and so if they can't fill with cold water they just sit indefinitely waiting for the cold water to enter. If there is cold water to the water inlet valve and the cold water works in other parts of the cycle - or to make warm water - the valve is not the problem.

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Main Control Board

If the washer stops mid-cycle the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check other causes first such as the lid or door switch and other components.

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If the washer stops mid cycle the timer might be defective. This part is often misdiagnosed, check other components before replacing this timer.

Jul 25, 2013 | Washing Machines

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2000 pontiac bonneville blows hot and cold at the same time

Sounds like the blend door motor isn't working.

Jan 20, 2013 | 2000 Pontiac Bonneville

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Blend doors not blending, only blowing out hot or cold, no in between.

if this is an electronic problem then i would disconnect the operating mechanisms and fit a couple of cables from a bicycle gear change ,yes i know its ugly but mounted out the way under the dash or inside the glove box ?? most likely cause is electronics for what ever reason and i would even like to guess

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My frezzer works but refrig doesnt cool well

open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not hold in the door switch for a few deconds and let it go,if the fan isn't blowing this is your problem.all that happens is the freezer gets cold,the evap fan blows cold air through the damper and into the fridge section so if the freezer is fine you have a bad evap fan motor or the damper isn't opening all the way

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Refrigerator not cooling. doesn't seem like fan is blowing. freezer still working

all that happens is the cold air from the freezer gets blown into the fridge section by the evap fan motor brhind the inside back wall of the freezer so if you open the freezer door and don't hear the fan blowing i would say that yes you do have a bad evap fan motor and that's why the fridge section is time send the brand name and model number so i can help you better

Sep 17, 2011 | Refrigerators

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I have a 2001 Ford Focus DOHC. Heater doesn't blow hot. Hot cold indicator switch clicks as i9t should when I turn indicator but it doesn't seem to change anything

Feel your heater hoses and see if they are getting hot..If so when your click from the switch ,,make sure the door is switching from hot to cold

Sep 16, 2011 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Fridge is warm, was collecting water inside. Freezer is working fine. Increased temp but not responding. It is a bottom freezer model

send the model number off of the fridge,if the freezer is working fine then no air is being blown up to the fridge section,all it does is blow cold air from the freezer to the fridge section so either the door was left open and this is very common with a bottom mount freezer or the evap fan isn't blowing or on some models there's a damper inside the fridge section,the damper door opens and closes to let cold air in,when it reaches temp. the door closes,sometimes the door gets stuck in the closed position or the open position and the fridge freezes or gets warm depending on where the door is.first thing open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing,if not you could have a bad evap. fan motor,next look at the ceiling and on the packages,do you see frozen water droplets,if so the door was left open and the air ducts are froze up from the warm air getting in from the door being open and mixing with the cold air freezes up the air ducts,also stick your hand onto the back inside wall of the freezer,if there's like snow or frost on the inside back wall of the freezer you could have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,timer or board depending on the model or last a bad damper,when you open the fridge door there are air ducts usually up top and in the middle you should feel cold air blowing in,this is your problem the air isn't making it into the fridge section.if the door was left open,unplug the fridge,remove the food from the freezer and with a hair dryer heat up the back inside wall of the freezer and blow the hot air into the air vent holes in the back wall to melt out the air ducts,keep heating it up until you don't see any more water dripping,you can see the water dripping through the vent let me know what you find,send the model number and we can go from there.look up near the ceiling in the fridge section on the right hand wall and you should see a tag with the model and serial numbers,send the full model number so i can see what you have in your machine.

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1 Answer

Refrigerator side is barely cool. Defrost light on for over a week, but unit is self defrosting??? why is ref section cooler not performing?

you have a defrost problem?all a fridge does is blow cold air from the freezer to the fridge section,when you open the freezer door you should hear the fan blowing,under the fan there's the evap coil,this is what makes everything cold,if it doesn't defrost it gets covered with ice and then you have problems or on some models there's a damper and the door doesn't open stopping the cold air from blowing into the fridge'll need a meter,pull out all the food in freezer,remove all shelves and then remove the inside back wall of the freezer.with a hair dryer melt out all the ice,then find the bad part,defrost thermostat,defrost heater,bad timer or board depending on the modelwith the meter you can check the parts.also if you look down at the bottom kickplate,pull the kickplate off and look for a tech sheet,it will tell you how to put the machine into defrost,also next time send the model number so i can see what model you have,if you have a timer advance it and see if the heater comes on,also it doesn't hurt to change out the thermostat while you're in there and alot of times this is the problem,you can cut the two wires going to the thermostat located on top of the evap coil,connect them bypassing the thermostat,put the fridge into defrost,listen for a crackling sound,if you hear this the heater is on and you'll know the thermostat is bad,call your parts store,give them the model number and they will sell you the correct thermostat,if the heater doesn't come on remove the heater on the bottom and read it out with the meter,if it's not a glass heater most likely the heater will be good but check it anyway with the meter.if that's good then most likely you'll have a board problem depending on the model.hope this helps and good luck.

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1 Answer

The front air isn't blowing out as hard and the back a/c blowing out but blows out hot air! what's is the number one reason for this problem?

The number one reason for hot air out the back could be low freon or bad blend door to the rear, and not blowing hard out the front could be a block in the evaporator core. the core is like a small radiator that freon flows through and air is blown through it to make cold air sometimes if they leak it blocks the fins which slows down the air flow.

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Fan runs freezer and fridge don't cool

Please check the model number again, I can't locate that number. The number should be like for example 194.258978 Look at following areas for the model number
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  • I think your refrigerator has a defrost timer and this may be the problem, Let me know what you find, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Mar 29, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

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