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I have an 8 yr old Kenmore 90 Series gas dryer, #11074932201. Yesterday it began to not dry the clothes..only cool air. I removed and disassembled the vent assy housing (as well as filter) and cleaned it thouroughly. Quite a bit of lint removed. Reinstalled and tested by leaving door open, but pushing switch in door casing to activate the operation cycle and it blows hot air. Today I put a load of laundry in to dry and after one hour the clothes were still cool and damp. Tested thermal fuse for continuity with ohms meter and all is ok. Tested 2 themostat solenoids for continuity with ohms meter and all is ok. I keep reading about an igniter. Is that the posible cause? Thanks in advance for your response!

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  • mikeenany Nov 03, 2010

    I need to know if there is a diagram anywhere that I can view to inspect the parts that you've mentioned?

    Also, underneath the white thermal fuse is a sensor?? that has 2 purple wires, a red wire and a red/white wire. I disconnected the red and red/white wires from the sensor?> and added a jumper wire between the two to bypass the sensor?> I then plugged in the dryer and ran it for about 5 minutes. At the start, I had heat immediately and I can see the glow of flames behind the protective shield. After about 5 minutes the air flow out the dryer vent began to sputter and the glow of flames went out and then cooler air was being dispensed.

    I then disconnected the jumper wire and plugged the red and red/white wires back onto the sensor?>

    Once I started the dryer again I had heat immediately and could see the glow of flames behind the protective shield. Once again, after about 5 minutes the air flow began to sputter and the glow of flames went out and then cooler air was dispensed. So it appears that this part (sensor or whatever it is called) appears to work the same whether it is connected or not

    I hope that info helps!

    Thanks again, Mike

  • mikeenany Nov 04, 2010

    I installed 2 new gas valve solenoids today, following the step-by-step procedure that you provided. Once completed I did a load of laundry and everything works great!
    Thank you for your technical support and expertise. I appreciate your time & effort.
    - Mike

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  • Master
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The thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat on the blower housing and the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat on the box must have continuity. If those parts have continuity, the problem can be with the igniter, flame/radiant sensor, or the gas valve solenoids sitting on top of the gas valves. Check the igniter if it is glowing red hot when the dryer is turned on. If yes, then the gas valve solenoids are not working. Test the coils for continuity and replace both of them if one or both of them are found open. The igniter, which is made of a very fragile material, must be broken if it doesn't glow red hot. Inspect the igniter for such obvious sign of physical damage.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

  • Jahn27
    Jahn27 Nov 03, 2010

    All of the parts mentioned above are therefore working properly except for the gas valve solenoids. The solenoids are working perfectly when cool but are weak and eventually fail when it get hot as manifested by the flame and therefore the heat going out after 5 minutes which is enough to heat up the coils. The only viable solution is replacing both coils.

    Disconnect power then pull the lint trap out and remove the screws under it.


    Pry the top cover as shown then raise it to the rear of the dryer.


    Disconnect the door switch and remove
    the screws attaching the front panel to the cabinet then lift up and
    remove the panel. Disconnect the wires from the coils and remove the screw that secures the coils holding bracket then slide the coils out.


    Slide the new coils in and reconnect the wires then secure the coils holding bracket back in place.

    Reinstall the front panel back into position by following the removal steps in reverse order. Reconnect the door switch then rotate the top panel back into position and push it down to snap the clips and secure the top panel to the font panel. Put the screws back into the lint door opening and reconnect power to complete the repair.

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