Question about Jenn-Air JMC8127DD Microwave Oven
Highly likely your microwave has "failed".
Down inside the microwave is a part called the Magnetron. This is the part, (about the size of your fist), that makes the sound waves to cook the food.
On some models, it can fail, whilst all the other stuff works.
1) You need a fuse replaced.
2) You need a capacitor replaced (That part "starts" the magnetron) or
3) you need a new magentron.
In any regard, very often people will not opt to have it repaired, because the labor & parts can cost more than a new Microwave.
God bless your efforts.
Posted on Sep 08, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Fan turned on after cooking because a thermostat got to hot and tripped turning on the fan to try to cool the unit. The unit went completely dead when thermal fuse tripped which is located above the cavity on the left side.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
SOURCE: GH7145XFB-1 not heating properly
Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:
- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose conneciton on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
Posted on Nov 17, 2007
yes, at the back of the microwave there are 4 or 6 screws, take them out and then pull the cover follow the cable( the one you connect to the outlet) going to the inside of the microwave inside you will see the fuse change it with the same size, it is a slow burn fuse
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
It's possible the magnetron tube, the microwave source, has gone bad, or one of the parts in its power supply has failed. There may be bad connections on the control circuit board, or the board itself is not working properly. One of the door interlock switches may be bad or is out of adjustment. The most frequent cause is the magnetron, particularly is you've had the oven for a while and it's gotten lots of use. Just like in a light bulb, wires in the magnetron can burn out, and one day the oven just quits heating.
Because of hazardous voltages present and the chance of microwave leakage if repairs aren't done correctly, you should leave servicing to a professional. A service shop can diagnose the problem and give an estimate. Or you can look at new ovens, which is often a more economical choice. The magnetron is the most expensive part to replace; between the part cost and labor charge, it's often not much more to buy a new oven. Sometimes a new oven can even cost less.
Hope this helps you decide what to do. Thanks for using Fixya!
Posted on Dec 12, 2010
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Oven Capacity (cu. ft.): 1.6
Wattage (IEC-705 Test Procedure): 1000
Cooking System: CircuWave™
Power Levels: 10
Clock: Plus AM/PM
Electronic Scrolling Digital Display: Yes
Electronic Touch Controls: Yes
Kitchen Timer/Timer (On/Off): No/Yes
Variable Scroll Speed: 5
speeds (sub-pad w/ AM/PM)
SmartControl System - Concurrent Programming: Yes
SmartControl System - Help Pad: Yes
Beverage (Convenience): Yes
Cook (Convenience): 9
Popcorn (Convenience): Yes
Reheat (Convenience): 6
Add 30 Seconds: Instant-On
Child Lock: Yes
Cooking Complete Reminder: Yes
Defrost Type: Auto
Delay Start: Yes
Display On/Off: sub-pad
Express Cook: Instant-on
Reminder (24 hr): Yes
Time Cook: I
Time Preference: Control
Turntable On/Off: Yes
Turntable Size (in.): 13-1/2
Cooktop Lighting: Bright/Night/Off
Night Light: Auto
Rack Type: Wire
Sound Volume Control: 4
Easy Mount Installation: Yes
Exhaust Fan: 2-Speed
Case Color: Black
Color Appearance: Stainless
Door Color: Black/Stainless
Weight And Dimensions
Approximate Shipping Weight: 63
Overall Depth: 15
Overall Height: 16
Overall Width: 29
Cavity (W x H x D): 20
31/32" x 9 3/8" x 14 3/16"
Electrical Input - 120V Amperage: 15
Electrical Input - 120V Watts: 1480
Frequency (MHz): 2450
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