Fridge is not cooling, fans run but freezer and frige do not get cold. I cleaned off all coils and it cooled and made ice for a week and quit again. So I double checked coils again and cleaned . Ran good for about 3 days and quit cooling again. Model # 56958692890
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Re: 1999 Kenmore side by side fridge not cooling
You're frosting up due to either: bad defrost timer/heater or low gas. I'm assuming that you completely defrosted the unit, that there are no open liquids inside and the door remained closed most of the time to remove the threat of excess moisture in the box.
Defrost timer issues:
The unit should 'rest' about 1-2 hours a day where you don't hear the compressor and the unit should try to melt the ice. It has a heater to do that. The timer or the heater or a connection could be bad.
More likely: you've got a low gas situation. The way to check is that the compressor should come on at some point. Check the larger tube. Is should get frosty and then clear off or stay wet. It might even dry off. If it remains frosty...you're low on gas. Depending on the type of gas you need...it may be R 12...they unit may be unrepairable by other than a licensed tech.
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Some fridge freezers take the cold air from the freezer and moves it into the fridge via small duct in the back of the inside of the fridge and freezer . Empty frige and freezer , take plug ouy of wall and carefully remove involved panels taking note of any mechanical valves and order for reassembly. Clean and clear all airways and check for any blockages . Over loading of freezer can also obstruct airways . Whilst you are doing this you will allow a good defrost time for fridge and freezer airways . Hope this helps
IT'S FUNNY THAT THE FRIDGE SIDE IS WORKING AND THE FREEZER ISN'T,ALL THE MACHINE DOES IS GET COLD IN THE FREEZER AND THE EVAP FAN BLOWS COLD AIR FROM THE FREEZER TO THE FRIGE SECTION.IF THE FRIDGE IS COLD AND THE FREEZER IS RUNNING WARMER THAN IT SHOULD YOU COULD HAVE A SEALED SYSTEM PROBLEM,SOMETHING WGONG WITH THE COMPRESSOR OR A LEAK IN THE SYSTEM.THE GAS WILL CONTINUE TO LEAK AND THEN BOTH SIDES WILL GET WARMER AND WARMER.YOU CAN REMOVE THE INSIDE FREEZER WALL,LOOK AT THE EVAP COIL AND CHECK THE FROST PATTERN ON IT,WHEN IT'S RUNNING CORRECTLY THE WHOLE COIL WILL FROST UP BUT IN YOUR CASE YOU'LL MOST LIKELY FIND THE COIL PARSIALLY FROSTED OR JUST THE TOP OF THE COIL WILL HAVE ICE ON IT,THAT MEANS NEW FRIDGE TIME,IT WOULD BE TO MUCH MONEY TO REPAIR IT.LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND WHEN YOU LOOK AT THE COIL AND WE CAN GO FROM THERE
This could be a multitude of things. If your refrigerator is running, listen for your evaporator fan in the freezer to see if it is runniing. It also can be your condensor fan underneath the rear part of the refrigerator. The most common problem is your condensor coils are dirty, clean them off. Make sure you put the cover back on when you are finished. You can also check to see if you fan is working in your by putting your hand where the vents are in the fridge which is in the top left corner of your fridge. If there is no air coming through there that is your problem, I am not for sure if you have the electronic control door that opens and closes as cool air is needed in the fridge that could also be malfunctioning. Good luck!
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through
it.There is a flap you adjust with the
fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the
fridge temp . OR .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
This is almost a word for word common problem. On frost free fridge freezers of this type all cooling is generated through the freezer side and is merely forced into the fridge side through airflow. Therefore if you have a problem with the fridge you have a problem with the freezer section. The most likely cause is that the coil is frozen up. We would always suggest defrosting unit overnight in case it was simply a door left ajar being the cause of the fault. If the unit then pulls the fridge temp down and it was not the door ajar then you probably have a defrost problem (heater or defrost thermostat, or defrost timer). If it fails to pull the fridge temp down on restarting then it could be the fan or part of the defrost circuit or even possible the cooling circuit. The normal outcome after defrosting is that the temp will drop in the fridge due to air circulation improved, which will probably remain cool for 2-3 weeks until the coil becomes frozen again. On either result I would contact an engineer on the 2nd failure occurrs so that the engineer can establish the exact cause. Hope this helps.