Question about Whirlpool Gladiator Refrigerator

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Whirlpool gladiator garage freezer/refrigerator (top)

We have defrosted this unit several times because the drain hose in the rear of the unit keeps freezing and water cannot flow down the drain hose. I keep a thermometer in both the bottom freezer unit and the top refrigerator unit. Both temps are accurate for the appropriate unit. The last defrosting lasted only 3 months and the drain hose is now frozen again so ice is depositing all over the freezer contents. I must keep a plastic container on the top shelf of the freezer (bottom unit) and empty the ice deposited daily. Please tell us what the problem is as this unit is only 3 years old. We have always purchased Whirlpool products and have been well satisfied. Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for this unit.

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  • KARDEB Jun 13, 2008

    I cannot access your (Hasib Ahmed) solution to the Whirlpool Gladiator Garage Refrigerator/Freezer posted by KARDEB on 6/12. When I click on "want a solution...click here" I get another site called "click and earn" for at home businesses. Please advise. Thanks!

  • Anonymous Dec 11, 2008

    My Gladiator has the same problems that are described by Kardeb above.



    The ice builds up in the freezer compartment about every 6 weeks.

  • Anonymous Jan 02, 2009

    water leaks into buttom of freezer,freezer on bottom

  • hoffman_tom Jan 24, 2009

    I have the same problem.

  • Anonymous May 03, 2009

    I have the same problem.

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Remove the back liner and wall (more details on this below if you need them) to expose the iced up drain line (only 1) on the right side center inside the aluminum drain pan (Directly behind the bottom right side vent that goes into the freezer compartment). Thaw it out so that it will allow water to drain off (slow way -turn off unit for hours, not quite so slow - spoon in hot water - use towels to keep as much of the water from running into the lower freezer) When the drain is clear and water is draining freely, take light qauge copper wire (t-stat or low volt) and feed it down the drain approx 3 - 4 feet and then wrap the end of it tightly around the heavy defrost bar located just above the the drain hole (this bar resembles an oven element or dishwasher heater element and circles the entire freezer coil). Put several tight wraps on it. This will transfer some of the heat from the defrost cycle down into the drain line and hopefully solve your problem. If the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work) reinstall all liners and wiring and you're done
removing the back wall (if you are unsure) take of plate located at upper left side of the back wall (2 short screws) to expose the wire harness- separate the main connectors) remove the 6 fasteners attaching the back metal liner wall (4 long & 2 short - the short ones go to outside lower holes) . and remove the bottom plastic liner tray (just lifts out) and the short plastic base wall at the back bottom of the compartment ( it may be iced in and hard to remove- be careful) remove the stryofoam insulating liner. Again it may be iced in and frozen to the unit so be careful and if necessary use warm water to thaw it out. This will expose the inner liner wall and the lower drain pan and line. If you see that the bottom of the coils are iced up you may want to remove the inner liner and defrost the coils but this it not usually the case and you can leave it in place. Again, if the coils are totally iced up you may have a defrost cycle problem and if so this solution won't work)

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

  • jerichojay Oct 07, 2010

    there is now an "official" factory fix. A sears tech showed me a kit that includes a metal clamp )to attach to the defrost bar) and a strip of aluminum to go down the drain. He said the copper wire solution worked just as well (or better perhaps since copper trasmit heat better) but that the wire only had to go down the drain a few (12?) inches.

  • Jim Oldfather Nov 14, 2012

    The "Probe Kit", p/n 819043 is available from Gladiator Garageworks at no charge if you are the original registered owner. It includes more than just a probe kit and should all be installed for the best results. A couple of notes though, (1) do not attempt to remove the nylon drain insert. It will not come out. The metal drain insert will fit into the nylon insert. (2) The nylon insert curves and the full length of the metal drain insert will not go in fully. It must be trimmed down in length to less than half it's original length. (3) The heat probe can then be installed. It will require some bending to conform to the curve of the nylon insert. Since installing the complete kit on my Freezerator, it has worked just fine. I use the top for a refrigerator with the setting at the nine o'clock position and the bottom as the freezer with the setting at the six o'clock position.

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