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Whirlpool oven # 84800

The element seems to have died - shorted out, but I can be sure because I have not removed it yet. the oven simply does not heat up properly, and the top element is working fine?

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It sounds like its bad.Replace it with the power OFF/

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

  • Archie Ferrarini
    Archie Ferrarini Jun 14, 2008

    model number boobo45 would have helped here.

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How do I replace the lower oven heating element?


Hello. Your oven has the hidden bake element. Are you SURE it's the problem--Many things can mimic a bad element. A thermal fuse might have opened, the main oven control board might have a stuck relay that turns on the bake element. TURN OFF THE POWER NOW. To *verify* that the element is indeed bad, you will have to pull the oven out and remove the back cover. Near the bottom you should see the 2 wires connected to the terminals at the end of the element. *Carefully* remove one of the connectors(it doesn't matter which one) and, using a VOM(digital volt meter) set to continuity(it beeps when the leads are shorted together), put each lead on a terminal of the bake element. If the element is good, your meter will beep(there is almost no resistance in the element). If you hear nothing, it means that the element has opened somewhere(just like a broken wire). At this point I highly recommend getting a pro to further troubleshoot the unit. If the element has opened, it can be really tricky to remove and then insert a new one--depending on the model oven you have.

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Does the bake element work if so great means TOD is good since most people do not have the equipment to pull an oven out you can do it this way kill the power you can remove the broil element from the front just remove screws disconnect one lead from element with a meter check for ohms or continuity if none bad element since you have the element out clamp onto the leads or secure with electrical tape make sure nothing touches metal restore power set to broil should read 208 or 240 volts this lets you know control is good

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I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

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1 Answer

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Hi,
If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
Check out this tip that I wrote about the Oven not heating problem..

Oven Problems Electric2_bing.gif Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

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- www.fixyourboard.com

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