I turn on the AC thermostat inside the house but the unit outside does not go on. I already changed the breaker outside but it still did not work. I work only when the unit inside is running for a couple of hours the the outside unit goes on, what shluld I do.
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Re: The Exterior Units does not turn on.
It sounds like the outdoor unit is tripping on high pressure. This can be caused be a dirty outdoor coil. It can take hours for the unit to reset and try again. a loose or damaged control wire can also cause intermittent power loss as you have described. With that said I suggest that you call a technician to check it out.
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if the inside unit is running but the outside unit isn't - I would check the fuses or breaker. I suspect you have a blown fuse or a tripped breaker.
What is also possible is that the 'low voltage' thermostat wire (coming from the thermostat inside the house) has been cut - possibly by a lawn mower or weed eater - or chewed into by a dog.
If this is the case - you easily splice (with all power off) the wires back together using the color of the individual wires.
are you talking about a 'split system' here - as in a house - where you have an inside unit and an outside unit?
If so - when you say you had the 'breaker' off - are you talking about the breaker to the 'outside' unit or the breaker to the 'inside' unit?
Note: on split systems you have a breaker that controls the outside unit and you have a breaker that controls the inside unit.
Typically - the outside unit has a breaker box/fuse box outside with the unit although you will also have a breaker in the main breaker box too, which is usually located in the garage or house somewhere.
The inside unit (usually located in the garage or house somewhere) will not have a breaker box/fuse box, (will merely be plugged in to the wall) but will have a breaker - also - in the main breaker box.
The importance of these questions is because it's possible you 'shorted' your transformer (located in the inside unit) when you changed the thermostat. Although if you had the inside breaker off while you were changing it (thermostat) - I don't see how you could of did this.
In any event - do you remember seeing a spark when you were changing out the thermostat?
If so, then I'm betting you shorted out the transformer.
If that's the case - I would recommend calling a Service Tech - because changing a transformer and 'clearing the short' is sometimes a complicated process - and unless you are fairly adept mechanically and electrically - I would advise getting a professional to do this.
In any event - he/she should be able to solve your problem for only a nominal service call.
No. The thermostat (located in the house) controls both the inside and outside units.
A common problem for the situation you're describing (and the one I will explain here) is that the contactor (located in the outside unit) which is controlled by 24 Volts coming from the 'inside' thermostat - has 'stuck' in the 'made' position (causing line voltage to remain to the condenser 'and' possibly to the compressor).
To 'determine' this - 'turn off the line voltage to the outside unit.'
You do that by locating the 'breaker/fuse box' which is located near the outside unit. It will be a gray box about the size of large cigar box - and will be attached to the side of the house usually - although it can be on the AC unit itself.
The lid can be lifted which will expose a 'breaker switch' which resembles a light switch (sometimes a little larger) which can be flipped in the OFF position.
If it's a 'fuse block' - then you will have to grip it and pull it out. Usually there will be a metal ring that you can grip and pull. Once the 'block' is out - you will notice that it contains two fuses.
Either way - once you flip the switch down or pull the fuse block - the line voltage is disconnected to the AC.
NOTE: some 'older' breaker boxes contain 'knife connectors,' which are designed to 'disconnect line voltage' by the action of 'pulling a handle (on the side of the box) ... down. When this handle is pulled down the 'knife connectors' will 'disengage - thus disconnecting the line voltage to the AC unit. "It is not uncommon" - for 'one' of these 'knife connections' to remain in the "connected" position - which will still leave partial line voltage to the outside unit - a potentially dangerous situation.
Point being - it is always wise to check the voltage coming in (with a voltmeter) before sticking your hands into a electrical device like a AC.
That being said - sometimes after turning off the breaker switch (or pulling the fuse box) you can hear a 'buzzing noise' coming from the outside unit. If you hear this noise - it means you are still getting 24 Volts from the inside thermostat. However, in this case, assuming the thermostat is indeed OFF - then you shouldn't hear any buzzing noise.
Either way - when you turn the breaker off the unit will shut off. NOTE: be sure the inside thermostat is in the OFF position.
Then you can open the electrical panal of the AC unit and take a look at the electrical components. NOTE: as stated above it's always 'wise' to use a voltmeter and "make sure" there is no voltage to the unit. You are looking for 24, 110 or 220 volts.
The component (contactor) you are looking for is usually easily identified because the unit's main electrical wires (typically 3) are coming into the contactor from the breaker box.
This component usually has a small plastic front plate that can be removed by taking out a couple of screws. (Note: it wouldn't be unsual for this cover to be missing already)
Once the cover is removed you can see that this device is designed to 'connect' the wires coming in from the breaker box to another set of matching wires that sends line voltage to the fan and compressor among other things.
It is a 'spring loaded' device that is usually 'pulled together by 24 Volts coming from the inside thermostat - but by depressing it (manually with a screwdriver) will cause the copper contacts to "make" - thus - connecting the wires from the breaker to the wires sending voltage to the fan and compressor.
This is accomplished with 'spring loaded action.' Normally - you should be able to take a screwdriver (as stated above) and manually depress the contacts - but in this case - it - may already be - "made" - and you will not be able to this.
Usually if this is the case the copper contacts have 'burnt' together - and the connection is permantely engaged - which is what causing the AC to run (outside) even though OFF on the thermostat inside the house.
If the contacts have burnt and are permantely engaged - then the 'fix' is to replace the contactor - which can be accomplished by removing all the wires (from the contactor) - clearly labeling them so you can replace them on the new one.
Once you've removed all the wires - you need to remove the contactor from the unit. It will usually be 'screwed' into the unit with screws.
Once you have the contactor out you can take it to a Air Conditioning Supply house and buy a replacement part. I would try to get an identical contactor - to make it as easy as possible re-installing it and putting the wires back on it.
NOTE: I would not attempt this unless you are -very - "mechanically inclined." Changing out a contactor can be very complicated/difficult.
Also - 'paying a Service Tech to do this for you - shouldn't cost much - probably less than $100 (if you already have the replacement part).
You need to call someone who truely knows what they're doing. From your decription, the person you had out should not be working on units. You have a problem most likely caused be the person that installed the new motor and these units are not designed to be worked on by the homeowner. There are hazards that could cause damage or injury.
Sounds like you have a high voltage problem.The disconnect or the breaker is possibly tripped.I doubt it is getting the required 240v electricity.The clicking you hear is the low voltage from the indoor unit/thermostat.
The first thing to check is your breaker box. There should be one double breaker for the air handler unit, that's the inside unit, and one double breaker for the compressor, that's the outside unit. Check both breakers. If you're not sure if they've be thrown, click them toward the outside of the breaker box (off position) and then click them toward the inside of the breaker box (on position). If the breakers are on and you still are not getting any A/C take a look at your compressor, (outside unit). If the fan is running at least you're getting power. However, your compressor down inside the unit may not be getting power or it may need to be replaced. The compressor has a start-up cap. If this cap goes bad or the wires from this cap fry or corrode away, this will also keep the compressor from starting but the fan will still run. If the fan is not running it could be caused by a faulty relay inside the compressor cabinet. This relay is supposed to open and close based on a low voltage signal from the thermostat. I believe it's roughly 24 volts. This relay switches on and off the 240 volts for the compressor and the compressor fan. Often this relay goes bad or the wires leading up to it fry. If you?re going to work on the unit yourself make sure all power is shut off. There should be a shutoff switch on the outside wall near the compressor. I?d also shut the breakers off.
Do you have the system on A/C and it's calling for it to come on? If so, go to your breaker box and see if the unit is getting power. Also, you will need to check if the unit is being told to come on by the tstat. If you don't know how to check voltages then leave it to a professional but you first check should at least be the breaker. There is also another devise on the wall outside near the unit called a disconnect and it might have a breaker in it as well. Not all disconnects are the breaker type and not all units have them. Hope this helps.
The Mitsubishi units have to be reset by turning off the indoor units by switching the remote or thermostat to off. Then turn off the breaker to the outside unit(s). After 30 seconds,turn on the breaker and then you can turn on the remote for cool. If no lights come on on the inside units, most likely you have blown a fuse soldered on the main PC board. At this point, call your technician. A goos tech will be able to wire in an in-line fuse holder so if it should happen again, you can easily replace the fuse.
If you do see a light or two come on at the indoor unit but the outdoor unit does not start after 3 or 4 minutes, sounds like you will need to call a technician. Most likely you have a blown fuse on the main PC board of the outside unit. It is not an easy one to replace.