I have a Kenwood headunit and amplifier, 1000W. For a little over three years I've had no problems with it. Never pushing anything too hard. Connected to the amp are four 4x6 rockford fosgate door speakers, and two 12" pioneer shallow mounts. A few months ago the bass began to go in and out periodically. when it went out all I had to do was turn the power on and off and it would come back. One day I turned the vehicle on and there was absolutely no sound coming out of the door speakers/subs. Nothing is wrong with the head unit, it has been tested. Anyone have any idea??
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Yes!!!!!!!!!! Your remote wire is what tells your amplifier to turn on and off it won't work without it. Assuming your stereo headunit is an after market unit it has the correct wire for this. what you have to do is pull out you headunit, and in the back of the headunit where all the wires plug into your unit there is blue wire with a white stripe. this is the remote turn on wire. connect a wire to that blue n white wire and run it back to your amp, insert it into to the spot marked remote. turn your head unit on and your amp will power up... if you have all the rca cables hooked up your amp should be ready to go.... btw good choice on the amp, kenwood is the way to go!
unless you are a technician do not mess with the amplifier.
it takes years of school to learn electronics. unless it is a blown fuse or something simple,you will never fix it.
i did kenwood warranty for 8 years and the amplifiers are difficult to repair.
bigger the better my friend. Look at your Peak RMS output, and how long of wire you need. Then you could make the judgment call on how thick or what gauge you need. (2 involved factors power + distance). id say 10 gauge and you would be fine.
If youre not terribly picky about the looks just go to lowes or a hardware store and find one with similar threads and clamp that wire down-had similar problem with power terminal screw on a kenwood amp i got a panhead sheetmetal screw and drilled it right into the terminal and made my own threads and it works fine-good luck hope it helps
Cables are either shorted, or deck is putting out too much power for input on amp... many new head-units will put out up to 7v on the output jacks (RCA) the amp may only want to see up to 1v will need to consult head-unit manual for adjustment of outputs.
good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.
Yes. If the rated power is 380W and the Max power is 1000W then it will handle it. Subs fry when clipping occurs. Clipping is when the amplifier is pushed past its capabilities and the output to the sub gets "dirty". The better quality the amp, the safer it will be on your speakers. It is also important to remember that the gain control on the amplifier is NOT a volume control to boot the sound, it is only to match the output from the headunit to the input handling of the amp. Cranking the gain up too much WILL CAUSE CLIPPING.
The problem would be if you had it switched around. The 1200W subwoofer only means that it can handle 1200w of power the 1000w amp means that it can deliver 1000w of power. What you may have is an impedance mismatch. My question is what is the resistance rating on the sub woofer and what is the minimum resistance rating of the amplifier. These are actully the important issues at hand.
the rating of the subwoofer resistance in Ohms should never be lower then the minimum resistance rating on the amplifier. in fact the resistance rating on the amp should match the resistance rating on the subwoofer.