I have the Bazooka CSA150.1 250 watt amp and a Lanzar 250 RMS/500 watt peak. i can turn my truck on to acc. and the sub will work but when i turn my truck on, the sub will be hitting for only a couple of minutes, then the amp will turn off. But after that, you can turn the truck back on acc. and the amp will run great... what could be causing this? Thank, Bryant
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Re: amp turns off after a couple minutes of playing
That's a new one on me. The only electrical difference is the battery voltage on ACC is 12 volts. When you start the truck the alternator should put out about 13.7 volts. That would make me suspect a bad power supply in the amp or the output transistors, something in the amp is getting hot at the higher voltage and shutting it down
That would explain why you get two minutes ,and than when you turn the truck off the voltage drops back to 12 volts and the amp comes out of protect mode. Try a amp swap or if it's a self amplified tube, hook it up to a friends system.
Never hurts to put a voltmeter on the battery with the truck running, and off, to make sure the alternators voltage regulator is not faulty and exceeding the rated voltage. Good luck, let me know what happens, I'll ad it to the book. Regards Paul
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If you bridge the amp and get 1000 watts RMS and that is split going to two speakers then you will get 500 watts RMS at each speaker. If you have your amplifier on maximum gain it may blow your speakers, not because they are overpowered but because you might run into "clipping" issues running the amp at maximum capacity. Just to be safe I would dial the amp's gain down to 3/4 of the way to full gain. That should give you ample power and keep your amp from clipping and running hot.
You do not need to buy an amp, the only reason to buy one is if you do not think it is loud enough when you turn up the volume to max. The speakers you have can take more power than your stereo can provide, but you only need to add an amp to get more power if you want it to play louder than it does now.
Most likely cause is heat. The clearances behind the radio are often not sufficient to provde the proper air coolling that the higher power radios need. The heat sinks on the rear of the radio require a certain amount of air flow to dissipate the heat generated under high load conditions. If you add summer heat to the equation, you can have the radio going into thermal cutout to protect it circuity.
this bandpass enclosure is rated peak power at 1200 watts . what this means is that each subwoofer in the is peaked at 600watts to make 1200 watts . what your looking for is to power up the subs with rms continuous wattage . you need an amp that will put out 400 to 500 rms a channel to run this sub enclosure at 800 to 1000 watts rms to keep the speaker from blowing
this amp will give you
1 channel @ 4 ohm x1 350 watts
1 channel @ 2 ohm x1 900 wats
1 channel @ 1 ohm x1 1800 watts
you would have extra power for better subs with more power later but you get 900 watts which when connected right would mean 450 watts per sub be perfect for you .
i sell this for $320.99 in my store can shipp any where in usa
to contact me email@example.com
One of the oldest and most respected names in automotive sound is also one of the most consistent winners on the competition circuit. Lanzar offers a wide range of high performance subwoofers, from the pounding OptiDrive Series to the rugged MAX Series. The MAX12 dual-coil subwoofer offers high power handling, great bass response, an economical price, and a 3 year warranty. Specifications: *Power handling: 500 watts RMS/1000 watts peak *VCdia: 2" *Impedance: 4 ohms per coil *Magnet weight: 130 oz. *Fs: 33.6 *SPL: 88 dB 1W/1m *Vas: 3.19 cu. ft. *Qts: 0.47 *Xmax: 10mm *Dimensions: A: 12.09" B: 11.15" C: 6.42"
While I don't have any first-hand experience with either Bazooka amps or Memphis subs, this review pretty much says what I initial thoughts were. The amp will do the job without much fuss, so it mainly depends on whether you can get it for a good price. BUT........ There could be a issue with your sub. According to Memphis, your sub (assuming it's the single voice coil version) is only good for about 250W RMS (let's ignore peak power for now). The ELA500.1, on the other hand, puts out 375W RMS at 4 ohms. You could very easily overpower your sub with that amp.
The advertised wattage for your amp is:
300 watts RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms
600 watts RMS X 2 @ 2 ohms
The actual wattage you will be using will depend on what type/impedence speakers you are using, and how they are wired. Here's a link to some more of the specs of your amp: http://www.bazooka.com/productAutoAmplifiersRS.asp?id=199
I hope this helps.