We have a am14c dishwasher,two elements went bad,one was leaking which caused sparks to fly out.I replaced the 2 elements but the heater does kick in,have voltage ,how do I test the thermostat to see if it shorted out?
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Re: booster heater not heating
If elements exploded, you replace them, and you don't have heat, you need a meter.
But the obvious things you can do -- check the high limit (little red button on lower front panel, behind a plate)
Otherwise you'll need a meter to check continuity for each thermostat (control/high limit), the coil on the contactor, the probe for low water cut-off, and voltage inputs and outputs to the low water cut-off board. Also there is the transformer to check.
The only way to test the thermostats without a meter is to jumper a wire across the terminals. This has some real personal dangers. Turn off the breaker, CREATE a jumper and attach it. Do not attempt to hand hold a jumper wire. WAY TOO DANGEROUS.
If you need help with any particular test, and you have a meter, I can help you out. Good luck - Mike
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How long does it stay in the wash cycle? Indefinitely? Does the display continuously show "WASH"?. If it stays in the wash cycle indefinitely (i.e. continuously shows "WASH" for significantly beyond approx. 3 minutes), it's probably a control board malfunction. If it continues to wash after the "WASH" indicator goes out, it could be a shorted wash motor relay on the relay board or a fauly control board.
If the internal rinse water booster heater doesn't reach it's programmed setpoint temperature in time, the dishwasher will run an extended wash cycle to give the booster heater more time to finish heating the rinse water. If this is what's happening, the wash cycle would last approximately 3 minutes, then it would rinse regardless of whether the booster heater has finished heating or not.
The booster temperature thermistor may be bad, giving a false booster temperature reading, causing an extended wash cycle as described above. The booster heater elements or contactor may be bad, preventing the booster heater from heating and reaching proper temperature, also causing the same extended wash cycle to give the booster more time to heat.
All Hobart dishwashers will have a wash tank heating element, but the rinse water is not heated by the dishwasher, unless it has a built-in booster heater. Usually a separate booster heater is used to heat rinse water to 180-190 deg. F for hot water sanitation.
Not practical. You would have to change the pump motor to single phase, you'd have to chage the heating element most likely depending on what size is in it now. Also does it require an auxiliary water heater? it's probably 3 phase also. Changing phases is not like changing voltages.
3 Con, is the booster heat contactor. If it is chattering, the fault will be in the booster. There are a few different boosters in the AM14. can you post the ML number from the data plate, or describe if the booster is a square Hatco HCM-10, or a round stainless booster with a 13 kw multi wired element.. All boosters use a low water cut off circuit, a high limit thermostat and a control thermostat. The old Hatcobooster uses mechanicqal components, where the new rount tank uses probes and a control board. The board has 3 leds. red is calling for heat, yellow is open thermistor, and green is shorted thermistor.
AM14's had a variety of different control circuit voltages, ranging from 240/208/120 and 24 volt AC. Check the transformer secondary for correct output to controls, trace through circuit until voltage pulses. If new style, it could be just scaled up probes not reading water. Drain the tank with the power off before removing probes.