Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Bad Mits capacitors

I have the blue flickering screen problem with my wd52525. I disassembled the electrical chassis and found 4 bad capacitors. I have ordered enough to replace all of the potential trouble capacitors because I don't want to have to do this again.

After I replace the capacitors I will try to reassemble the tv but to tell the truth, I'm not real confident, lol.

Is there a detailed description for putting this thing back together? If not, it may end up in the landfill!!!


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If your going thru all this trouble, be sure to check the 4 capacitors on the DM board (1000mf/16volt), the 4 caps on the formatter board (1000MF/16volt) and the 2 caps on the power supply board (3300mf/10 volt) Mitsu recoomends changing the 1000mf caps to 680MF/16volt.
It is kind of a pain to change these.
good luck

Posted on Jun 12, 2008

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You can get the full service manual at the following link that will show you how the chassis is removed and then its just reverse the proceedure. Heres the link.

Posted on Jun 11, 2008


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Flickering blue picture

I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!

I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.

I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.

If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.

Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:

and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 and C9A62) on the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:

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