Question about Jenn-Air JCD2290HES Side by Side Refrigerator
Hi I Have the above model fridge. Lately there is water accumulating under the unit please help! Thanx Ted
Got a couple of questions before we can really say much Does the refrigerator/freezer appear to be running as normal? is it perhaps always running at the time the water leaks for longer or more noisily than normal. Is the temperature of the freezer as normal? is there a particularly cold patch in the refrigerator , probably at the back or on the freezer side near the bottom? Where exactly is the water leaking from? and is there water collecting inside? Does the door seal properly at the base where the water seems to be coming from? Is there another major appliance with a heavy current draw that always goes on at the same sort of time? I'm thinking a water boiler, or aircon/heater, or the oven etc. Please post back, and we can start running through possible solutions :)
Posted on Jun 28, 2007
sounds like a leak where your incoming water line hooks to the water valves might just need to tighten the coupling or a mouse has chewed through one or both of the lines access the lines on the back and watch while some one gets water out the door to locate the leak
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
After reading this forum and other places I was pretty sure that luck of defrosting is a symptom and the defrosting timer relay is the most likely problem in my case. I must say that my Jenn-Air JCD2289AT refrigerator was occasionally creating rattling sounds in the upper right corner under the panel. I suspected some relay malfunction. This sound lasted for almost a year and then stopped. Refrigerator lost the temperature while working continuously without turning off. I went to a local parts shop and they had this defrost timer in stock. They said that the item is very popular and they always keep it in their stock. Calling technician would cost me $80 and the part was also $80 (not returnable). I’ve made my best bet and bought the part. I removed the panel and found the timer small board (2x3 in) in the upper right side. Make sure unplug refrigerator from power before changing it. The new part is coming in a plastic case, while the old part was without a case. I removed the cover to take picture and compare. My old part had a relay with a bulge on a side apparently due to burned contacts inside (see photo),
while the relay on the new one was perfectly square.
This is a picture without a cover.
I turned on the refrigerator and didn’t see any difference. Obviously, it needs defrosting. I was afraid that automated defrosting at a random time would flood my kitchen, so I opened up the panel in the freezer part to expose coils. Here I took an opportunity to check heating element with a relay. The relay was in “on” position, as supposed to while immersed into ice. The heater showed a resistance of 22.6 ω, and I thought it was OK.
This is partially thawed situation (I used a hair drier).
On the bottom left of the compartment I discovered a 2x3 inch opening connecting the freezer and refrigerator compartments. It was initially completely clogged with ice. That’s why the temperature in refrigerator part was so high, while the freezer stayed cold.
This is a veiw from refrigerator compartment. The hole is ~ 6 inches above the bottom on the left side. It provides cold air from the freezer compartment. If I checked it first, it would give me a clear idea what was going on.
I tried to collect water as much as possible not to overfill the tray under refrigerator.
Still the water spilled onto the floor. I pushed down on the front side of the tray and made a controlled spill. Now the tray had extra room for any residual water.
Refrigerator is working normally now.
This was the second strike. I am planning to move it to the garage and buy another brand. I think Jenn-Air/Maytag engineers are not smart enough to use old fashion electromagnetic relays. Technology offer more reliable electronic switches now for at leas several decades.
Posted on Aug 19, 2008
Possibly your defrost drain found inside the freezer back wall is blocked. If you could send me the model number I could help you better. Thanks, Sea Breeze
Look at following areas for the model number
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
SOURCE: HELP WITH WATER LEAK??
If you have turned the water off and it is still leaking out of the freezer side you may have a plugged drain. the drain is there as part of the defrost system to keep modern refrigerators frost free. When the machine goes into defrost and the heater in the freezer comes on it drains out the drain to a pan underneath and the heat from the compressor and the condenser fan underneath the unit evaporate it and the whole process starts all over again. every once in a while something will plug the drain on the bottom of the inside of the freezer side and when the heater kicks on to defrost the refrig the water cant go anywhere but to the bottom of the freezer and seeps out the front at the bottom of the door between the gasket and the refrig. check the drain...because if you have turned off the water and it is still showing up this could very well be your problem. Take the bottom shelves out of the freezer and look to the back and bottom at the middle sometimes you can see the drain and sometimes you have to remove the thin metal panel covering the back bottom half of the freezer,....inspect the drain hole and remove any obstructions or ice build up. if need be pour hot water into the drain to melt any ice that could be causing the obstruction to the drain. and the hot water should drain out of the frige.Write me back and let me know if I can help you further....
Posted on May 13, 2009
Hhi, Yes the drain is plugged. remove the floor panel in the freezer and then the rear panel. Locate the drain hole (right side of drain pan) and melt all the ice. there is an after market drain heater kit that you will need to buy and add to the defrost heater.
It is a design problem. Part# 819043
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
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