My Alpine 850 wont turn on.. I set up just a cheap little amp that pushes 130watts rms to my high range front speakers. Unfortunately i played them a little loud and the speakers blew also cause they were old. But my problem is i had 2 amps in 4 gauge wire to 2 8 guages then it was after the speakers blew the subs the amp stayed on for a bit but then the amp shut off and i thought it would come back on but it didn't i checked all the fuses and they were good i'm really hoping its not deffective cause i dont wanna buy a new one -.-'
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Re: wont turn on...
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
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Cut your gain back on the amp. It sounds like they are set too high. Check your install instructions on how to set your gain. If you have a 4 or 5 volt output head unit your will not be at half way. Im running a JL Audio 500 /1 on a skar wwv10 dvc in a ported box. My gain is set about half way & its plenty loud.I have a Alpine 9887 headunit 5 volt output on my RCAsI can take a volt meter & set my speaker output at 45amps & my gain in perfect.
I'm using that Alpine right now for 2-12" subs and I have compared it to 6 or 7 other amps this month and most were 4 channel 150Watt/Channel Bridged to 300Watts x 2 and found the Alpine to be superior in both sound quality and loudness. The Alpine has also not turned off even with full volume for hours at a time, Very solid amp I was very surprised due to it's size!
no it could one 12 but no 2 and def not a 15 when mach speakers to a amp you want to mach up the rms power you want to amp to put out enough to power bolth speakers so like 2 500 watt rms you would want a 1000 watt rms amp
well first of all you cant bridge subs... you can bridge an amp... and for 2 they are probablly not 1000 watts, make sure you understand RMS and what the sub can ACTUALLY HANDLE properly... i would get a 1000 to 1500 watt RMS that is RMS RMS RMS RMS amp not one that says 2000 watts MAX POWER cuz thats cheap ****... get a kicker JL hifonic alpine or something in that category that actually tells you the TRUE power output of the amp... then run those 4 subs in a parallel circuit so its like really only having 2 subs. make sure then these subs do not run less then 2 ohms at the terminals while in a parallel, then bridge these subs acting as 2 subs not 4 to your TRUE 1000 watt amp and you should have a good powerful system
Yes, only if you can prove it and believe me, they have so many loop holes now that they can pretty much do what they want. The fact is though, the RMS ratings on speakers can vary, but usually mean either Max watts or Normal (constant) listening range, depending on manufacturer. The other thing to mention is, to get the best sound out of your speakers, they say to put exactly half the watts of power to the RMS watts that your speakers are made for, just for future reference. Hope this helps some and good luck!
if you get the 4ohm you can wire it to run a 2ohm an the kenwood amp will push 900 watts at 2ohms.they say it can push up to 1800 watts,that would be at 1ohm.that kenwood runs 500 at 4ohms an 900 at 2ohm.if you need help wiring the sub or anything else let me know bertman285@hotmail,com
Max Power Output
4 Ohm [14.4V]
500W x 1 [20-200Hz, 0.5%THD]
2 Ohm [14.4V]
900W x 1 [100Hz, 1.1%THD]
Although amps with 5 channels are pretty rare, you can get one. Alpine, Boston Acoustics, Infinity, JL audio, MTX, and Polk all have 5-channels ranging in price from around $350 up to around $1,000. The Alpine PDX-5 will output 75X4 watts RMS for the front and rear stereo channels and 300 watts to the mono sub channel. It is priced at $599.99 at Crutchfield.
The CC-2502 is a bridgeable 2-channel amp. If you want to drive normal speakers in stereo, the best would be a good set of components with separate woofers, tweeters, and crossovers. They are available in many sizes from most car audio manufacturers. I'd begin by finding out what speakers fit the location where you intend to mount them. Then I'd browse the speaker selections in that size at www.crutchfield.com. You can also use the "outfit my car" feature to browse only the products that fit. Then select a pair that has a power range and impedance to match the amp: 250 watts RMS at 4ohms or 450 watts RMS at 2ohms.
If you want to use the amp in bridged mono mode to drive a subwoofer, again Crutchfield has a large selection of subs and some enclosures already fitted with subs (loaded). The amp claims 850 watts RMS into 4ohms bridged, so look for a sub that has a power handling rating of at least 850 watts and it needs to be 4ohms.
Hi firstof all your deck isnt really putting out 52 watts x4 more like 17-22w rmsx4 ,companies like to throw out some crazy numbers it seems. If your into Kenwood try out a KAC-8404 4-channel on the mids/highs that will put 50 w x4 rms at 4 ohms or if you wanna go a lil louder try the kenwood x600f that will throw 100w rms on each 6x9 at 4 ohms no problem. My system is very similar to yours but running 4 pioneer 5x7's in all the doors and powering it with the 8404 its loud and clean ,fan cooled and no problems at all. My subs are a pair of 15's soundstream t-4's powered by an Alphasonik pma2500a its throwing 800w rms on each sub running in stereo at 2 ohms.It can drown out the mids if i set it that way but my mids /highs cant take as much power as your kenwoods can or else id step up to the x600f too.
You need to match your amp's input voltage (the gain) to the output voltage supplied via your deck's preouts. Turn you radio up to normal listening level, and turn the amp's gain until you induce audible distortion then back it off slightly. Set the bass boost and crossovers to on and type (highpass for front/rear full range or lowpass for subs).