Question about Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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Rolled hem or rolled edge

I just cant remeber how to do a rolled hem it has been years. I use to use wooly nylon thread for a soft finish but cant rember do I change settings on machine?

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  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    what are the usual setting and whidh one do I thread which thread through

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You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!

Posted on Jun 11, 2008

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  • Janome Master
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I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Posted on Nov 11, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

I am using a Bernette 303 overlocker for sewing organza hemproll. What is the settings to do a proper job? I don't have a manual Please help>


Hello Annelize Barnard
'sounds like you are after a rolled hem on organza. A very beautiful finish indeed.
Thread serger for 3-thread rolled hem. This video may be very helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKZTa_kvDKQ

The needle tension will stay at the normal setting. The upper looper tension should be lowered by at least 2 and the lower looper increased by 2 ... these may be even more depending on the thread used. For best results use a "woolly" thread (woolly polyester is best as it will not melt with heat, although there are woolly nylon threads which are heat resistant). Test the settings on a scrap of the same organza.

Please let me know how this works for you.
Happy Rolling.

Feb 24, 2017 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I adjust tension on a Janome Harmony 9102D


Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Mar 02, 2015 | Janome Harmony 9102D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

Is wooly nylon suitable on woven fabrics?


I dont use wooly nylon on my sewing machine, only my overlocker, as its ideal for lycra and jersey fabrics where you want some flexibility and stretch in the seam. You could probably run it in the bobbin but you may find the machine top tension won't like wooly nylon going thru it. The only time I use it on a woven is when making a rolled hem edge on the overlocker, and I use wooly on the top looper only, regular thread in needle and lower looper. Its pretty expensive thread so I use it for special tasks only.

Apr 14, 2013 | Bernina Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Sep 09, 2011 | Necchi 6002 Sewing Machine

2 Answers

I am not getting an even rolled hem on a heavier fabric. I am only using 3 cones of Maxi Lock.


You can not do a rolled hem on heavier material. It is only for thin cloth. You have to do a 3 thread narrow edge on heavier cloth.

Aug 02, 2011 | Baby Lock Imagine

1 Answer

What is the settings for rolled hem using your overlocker


You haven't specified your overlocker make and model but some parts of the set up will be the same; you still need to consult your machine manual to find out the changes needed to the foot. Bernettes have a little switch near the blade that you flick to change how the stitch forms so it rolls.

You need a 3 thread overlock with the right hand needle (I'm assuming you have a 4 thread lock) turn the stitch length down to 0.5 so it is very closed up. And there is usually a little thread finger on the foot that needs to be changed or a switch you flick to move it back.

Then lower the tension down on the upper looper so this thread goes over the edge to the underside and tighten up the lower looper dial so this thread lies against the needle stitch.

Move the blade to the right so the fabric is cut wider than the seam that the threads are forming so the cut edge rolls underneath and is encased in the threads.

It is best to use wooly overlock thread on at least the top looper so this "fills" in the rolled edge.

If you visit you-tube and search using "Rolled Hem" or Nancy Zieman you should find some helpful videos too.

Apr 25, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I shorten the stitch to make a rolled hem? Please help.


For the rolled hem: the needle is in the O2 or right position, the length is 1.5 in the rolled section- you will see this, if you look on the side of the bottom knob- you can decrease this to 1, but you have to stay within the rolled section, the width is 3.5. the stitch selector is on D, the upper looper selector is UP, the blade is engaged and the subsidiary looper is to the right. You can use a decorative thread in the upper looper- Madeira Decor, Superior Threads made for bobbin work, or YLI Pearl Crown Rayon- or use a wooly nylon for excellent coverage and not need to decrease stitch length. I usually don't need to change the length with these threads.

May 21, 2010 | Baby Lock Evolve

1 Answer

Thread for a rolled hem on the bernina 800d


HI
I would reccommend regular serger thread for the right needle (left needle is removed) and the lower looper. and use wooly nylon in the upper looper
The tensions on the needle should remain at 5-6 upper looper thread tension should be about 3-4
and the lower looper tension at about 8
contact me at Sewaway@shaw.ca if you have further quetions
Wayne Buss

Apr 22, 2010 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

How do I overlock stretch fabrics so the stitches won't break when the fabric stretches?


I suggest also setting the stitch length to about 2 (very close together). When the stitch is shorter, it seems to be able to give a little more. I also use woolly nylon, but I still had the problem (especially when hemming). This is how I solved my problem....

Jan 24, 2010 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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