Can anyone tell me if a multi mteter can be used to read the speaker output connections to see if they are working or would i have to try a speaker conected to the output to check its opperation.My sons cars base (subs) wont work and we are not sure if its the speakers , amp or ???. all connections and fuses are fine, and the sytem is only weeks old. I have a multi meter but am not up to speed on what i can use it for....or how. THANKS
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
FIRST DISS-CONNECT POWER FROM RECEIVER.... DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY SERVICE / TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURES TO ELECTRICAL DEVICES PRIOR TO REMOVING ELECTRICAL POWER SOURCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now that the power cord is unplugged we can start. We shall start this repair by doing the easiest tests/checks first. That DOES NOT MEAN that just because the test is easy, its not very important.... every recommendation to follow is JUST as important as the next! (even if what is asked to be checked sounds un-important... its not! Follow this advice and YOU WILL RESOLVE YOUR ISSUE! TRUST ME... YOU WILL FIX THIS issue & before the days over.... SMILE & BE HAPPY! OK...... lets get started) First lets Check the power cord... unpluged? Sure hope so! Now the first thing that you have to do is check ALL the speaker connections at both ends!!!!!!!! (@ speaker & Receiver) Be certain ALL connections are tight & that NO strands of wire are shorting out the connections by touching each other...... the ends of ALL speaker wires must be seperate from each other at all times!!!! Each wire must ONLY be connected to one post/connector!!!!! Only ONE speaker should be connected to each terminal.... do not connect additional speakers to connections at any time!!!!!!!!!!! ONLY ONE can be applied to EACH OUTPUT TERMINAL!!!!!! If the speakers your using are fuse protected check fuses or circuit breakers accordingly. One open circuit (unconnected output terminal) or shorted (wires touching together) will immediatelly trigger receiver to SHUT DOWN!!!!!!! Receiver MUST have a load (speaker) connected to each speaker output to operate properly. Should all wires be found connected properly after checking at both speaker terminals & receiver terminals & problem is still accuring after reapplying power....... additional resistance checks must be made using an OHM Meter (available at most harware stores). If one of the speakers being used has burned out / gone bad / broke...... the only way to determine this condition is via a resistance measurment. Disconnect the speaker wire from the back of each speaker prior to doing resistance check!!! (a false reading will be observed if the speaker wire is still connected during this test) Now touch each of the two speaker terminals with one of the meter leads (the meter must be set to OHMS or RESISTANCE during this test for proper reading). The resistance reading observed should be NO LESS THAN 3 OHMS & NO MORE THAN 10 OHMS !!!!!!!!! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read LESS than 3 OHMS = speaker shorted... MUST be replaced! Should the resistance/ohm's value of any speaker being used / connected to the receiver be found by the OHM Meter to read MORE than 10 OHMS = speaker open.... Must be replaced! Connecting damaged speakers to any receiver for a prolonged period of time WILL DAMAGE RECEIVER!!!!!!! Speaker resistance MUST be between 3 & 10 ohms to avoid damage to output transistors in receiver.... when receiver senses less than a resistance of 3 or more of a resistance than 10 @ ANY speaker terminal during operation................. IMMEDIATE AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN OF RECEIVER WILL OCCURE!!!!!!! You've got a bad speaker or a loose speaker wire or a shorted speaker wire...... check each of your speaker connections/terminals & you'll find your problem! When you do find a loose or shorted wire associated with the speakers......... you'll have found your problem! Trust me.... you CAN do it!!!! and when you do... you will SMILE !!!!!!!! & be HAPPY!!!!!!!
I have a Marantz 7.1 AV receiver (sr5500) and I run a 5.1 set up for home theatre and use the 2 extra channels to run a pair of outdoor stereo speakers... When I first set it up I also found I could not get a digital signal output, only analog, after reading the manual(!) I discovered that it can only output an analog signal...so I have used the phono outputs on my blu-ray player into the CD input of the AV amp and play CDs outside through this and it also outputs the optical digital signal into the AV amp through the DVD input...my iPod also plays through a dock and it's analog output to the speakers outside through another (CD-R) anolog input on the amp... Hope this helps
There a few different issues that could be troubling you.
1. The Amplifier's outputs are no longer working
- To test this, connect the negative probe of a digital multimeter (DMM) to the negative (-) terminal of the amps speaker output. Connect the positive probe of the DMM to the (+) terminal of the amps speaker output. The output terminals you are referencing should be the output to the same speaker. Set the DMM to AC Voltage/lowest setting. If you read AC voltage than the outputs are ok. If you show no reading then the outputs are bad. Stop here and get the amp repaired or use as a paperweight.
2. Check the RCA connections behind the radio. They may have come undone. If so, re-connect and dance for joy as you once again enjoy music in your car.
3. Confirm that your RCA connections to your amp are plugged into the INPUT and not OUTPUT or THROUGHPUT. If in the output or throughput then move to the input. refer to the last sentence in #2 above.
4. Your RCA connections/or RCA cables are bad. Use the above mentioned DMM to check for continuity in the RCA's to ensuyre they are in working condition. You can also use the DMM set to ACC voltage like in #1 above to check to see if voltage (speaker signal) is being sent to your amp.
5. Make sure the amplifier's gain setting is not turned all the way down. If so, adjust accordingly.
If none of these solve your issue then most likely your amp is beyond the do-it-yourself repairs.
There are some possibilities. One, your speaker may be blown or disconnected. Make sure the wiring is still connected to the speaker and if you have one, try measuring the resistance(impedance) of the speaker with a volt ohm meter.Do this unplugged from current and disconnect one of the wires from the speaker or you will get a reading from the output stage. Two if there is a heaphone or line out jack it may have become faulty. If you have sound with the headphones plugged in your amp is still producing sound. Some jacks are designed to interrupt the signal to the speakers allowing you to practice without bothering anyone. If your amp has that feature and you still have sound with the headphones and your speaker tests OK then your problem is the jack. Hope this helps.
If you are not getting sound from any of the 4 channels, I'd suspect that either the amp is not getting an input signal or the amp itself is faulty.
Here's the "no sound" troubleshooting step-by-step procedure from the JL manual:
1) Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example; 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 5.O-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
2) Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the Speaker Connector Plugs from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
3) Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the Speaker Connector Plugs. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 12 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside each terminal.
I often troubleshoot these issues via a stereo head set, modify the leads so you can "Touch" them onto the Speakers Output Terminals, connect the "Shields" together, thats "Earth" and the other Two, are Left & Right... with the Amp's volume turned to about 25% volume, connect up the Earth wires to the Chassis with a clip, under a srew etc, just make good contact... then touch the Left & right wires onto the output, ya should hear sound... if not most probably the Output device(s) may have gone faulty.