Vehicle cranks over doesnt start. fuel pump does not kick on. checked all fuses, relays. pulled plug at fuel pmp, check leads with light tester, turned key on and off at all connectors does not light up. all other gauges move but fuel gauge.I have even tried to put obe comp on to get codes off and that shows can not connect.

Check signal wire from starter to either solenoid or start relay. Make sure signal wire is connected to starter properly. One side of the start relay leads to the starter the other to the ignition switch. Check sinal wire is connected. If so test signal wire w/ tester. Ohms setting. Test relay ohms setting. Relays usualy dont go bad. Test ignition switch w/ tester. DC voltage 12 volts or greater. Black terminal to neg or ground. Red terminal to ignition switch side of relay/solenoid. Turn ignition swich to start look for voltage reading. Depending on the vehicle it could be anywhere from 6 to 12 volts. If no voltage reading somthing has failed on the ignition switch side of relay. A relay is simalar to a fuse and will be housed w other fuses under the hood. Also all fuses should be checked. This can be done w the ohms setting on tester without removing the fuse. Look at the top of the fuse there are exposed points that allow the tip of each lead to contact the fuse. Only some fuses are like this. Remember signal wire or fuses this is probably going to be your problem.

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Check all fuses and relay fuses. Then "crack" the fuel line to the injectors and crank to see if fuel is present. If fuel pressure is present, check for spark (Ensure no spilt fuel is around) by cranking with plug lead shorted off the spark plug.

Do you have a test light? If not, go buy a cheap $5 test light-one with a lead to clip to a ground, and with a needle type probe.
Pull the fuel pump relay out of the terminals it is plugged into-you need to check if the power feed for the pump is still available at the relay. Clip the test light lead to a ground and touch the test probe to the positive battery post-to check that your ground is good- tester should light up. Now touch the probe to all of the terminals that the relay plugs into. One terminal should have power with key off. If no terminals have power, you have lost the power feed for the pump. Double check all your maxi fuses in the power distribution box. Either a maxi fuse or a fusible link will be the power feed for the fuel pump relay.
If the power feed is there at the relay, try a new relay. If still no pump, a shop will probably have to check your fuel pump circuit.
Did you check for power at the fuel tank while the key was held in crank? When the engine is cranking, the fuel pump wire should have power. When the key is turned to on, the fuel pump should have power for about 2 seconds, to pressurize the fuel system. Then when key is turned to crank or start, the fuel pump should stay on.

The used ECM needs reprogrammed for your vehicle.

Either you are not getting spark or not getting fuel. A bad crankshaft position sensor would cause no spark at all. You can pull one spark plug, place it back on the plug wire. Lay the plug electrode next to a metal surface. Have someone else crank over the engine while you observe for spark. You should see a spark jump from plug to the metal surface. (plug electrode should be no more than 1/4" away) If you don't have spark, put the plug back in and move on to the next plug and try that one. (the correct way is to use a spark tester) If you have no spark in any plug, you may want to test the crankshaft position sensor with an ohmmeter. You can also use a meter to test power at the ignition module.
If you find that you do have spark in every plug, then it's possible that you don't have fuel. There is a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail. There is a cap and a valve. With the key in ON position ,you can place rag over the test port, press in on the valve and there should be fuel that comes out meaning there is fuel pressure. (the correct way is to use a fuel pressure gauge if you have one)
If you find there is no fuel pressure, turn the key off and back on again. You should hear the fuel pump. If you can hear the fuel pump, then it is working. That means you may have a plugged fuel filter or faulty fuel pressure regulator. If you do not have hear the fuel pump, check the fuse and fuel pump relay. You can test the relay and a fuse with an ohmmeter on the ohm setting. You can also use a voltmeter and check power to the relay and also to the fuel pump to test for 12 volts. If you have power to the pump but the pump is not running, it is likely faulty. If you don't have power to the pump, then either the relay or fuse is bad. If they test out ok, then test power from ECM.

These are the most common causes of a no start. If you have any bad sensors of any sort, it would likely set of the check engine light. Then the computer should be tested for engine codes which can be done with a scan-tool.

a) Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start ,No dash lights?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)

If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap, ground the coil wire and remove fuel pump relay ( to disconnect the pump for testing)and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Verify this by removing the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing . First thing reconnect the distributor.
Pull a spark plug, hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks. Reinstall fuel pump relay
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
Now the cutting out after running fora whilrcoild have caused by the coil, ignition module, fuel pump.
We kinda have to get the car to start first to be conclusiveas to why it cuts out.

You mean it cranks but wont start (cranking and turning over are the same thing) When cranking, rap on the fuel tank, if it then runs, the pump is bad and will need to be replaced.

you going to have to narrow it down to see what part is defective. first check make sure you getting sparks by pulling one of the cable and use spare plug and ground it making sure you getting fire when turning engine over. 4 things need to check for fuel delivery. fuse, relay, fuel pump and crank sensor. assumed fuse and relay are good, using 12v light tester locate the fuel pump connectors and connect pos and neg terminal and have someone turn engine over and see is you getting any power to the pump, if the pump is good, crank sensor will be faulty, what crank sensor does it sense the flywheel turning sending info to the ECU then the ECU send power to the fuel pump. keep in mind, fuel pump will only turn on as long the crank sensor sense the flywheel turning.

if it's not cranking during starting then try the following
* check the Timing Belt * check other Belts * check the Battery * check the Fuse and Realy Box
if it's cranking during starting
* check the spark plugs * check the spark plug wires (if it's corroded) * check the coils and its wires * check the fuel pump * check the Fuse and relay Box
hope it works

1. make sure you really have no fuel delivery. open a line convenient for you as in cold start injector or fuel filter, disconnect ignition coil lead and crank away a bit to make sure you're not getting fuel.
2. I assume you're getting spark.
3. check efi fuse in main relay box passenger side inside right fender. if good check that you have juice at the Co relay hidden in the passenger kick plate. its the white-red terminalwhich delivers the current. the Circuit opening relay is really the main enchilada for getting the pump up and adam.
4. still no go. you have to address the Co relay itself. test terminals with ohm tester. also you can jump wire the Bp fP terminals in the diagnostic connector on the side of the main relay and see if the pump goes.
5. and lastly it might be the pump itself