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RS2544SL Did you solve your problem. I have a similar problem. The defrost sensor was already replaced without fixing the problem. Also the unit will not reboot when plugged-in due to the continuing defrost sensor signal on the front door panel. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you Tom

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I have to take the rear freezer panel off everry few days and defrost it that way, not a solution, but I'm waiting for a reply from Samsung they "did not recieve" my first fax.

Posted on Jun 17, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Samsung RS2544SL/XAA getting iced and freezing


In freezers if it's getting ice inside body surface? Sometimes refrigerators doesn't defrost ice completely and shut the drain water line of defrosted ice. If you doesn't have checking instruments for defrosting heater element and other parts, there id's wary wary to defrost ice once completely once. Thank you

Oct 17, 2016 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Defrost Heater Resistance Range


21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,

drcool

Sep 30, 2008 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge not cooling


You have probably dumped the unit now but here are the most likely faults:
1. Defrost Heater (there are probably two in series, one on evaporator and one in drain hole so if one fails, neither work). You remove power, use an Ohmmeter and measure the resistance of the heaters which should be really low <20 ohms.
2. Thermal fuse (if this blows, it must be replaced properly and insulated from the heater). Again, a low Ohm reading would be required.
3. Ice blockage in drain hole (pour a small amount of warm water and ensure it goes down into the tray below compressor where it evaporates away).
4. An error is detected due to a faulty sensor or fan (if it has a display, it may have a diagnostic mode and instructions on back of unit). There could be two sensors and they are usually the same type. One would be for fridge temperature and one for the defrost temperature. You can again use an ohmmeter and check that you are getting similar readings from each (they will be a little different due to being different temperatures and you can warm them with your hands and see the resistance alter a bit).

Lastly the main board which are generally pretty robust and you have already changed.

Apr 25, 2014 | Samsung RS265TDRS Side by Side...

1 Answer

Neff integrated fridge freezer


test this steps and fix it, use the VOM. God bless you

  1. Defrost control boardIf the defrost function is not working on your refrigerator it could be an issue with the defrost control board. This control board oversees several internal conditions and regulates the activation of the defrost cycle. A faulty board can be the primary reason your refrigeration unit is not transitioning to the defrost cycle. Over time, the buildup of ice on the evaporator coil will prevent the refrigerator and freezer from maintaining proper internal temperature. It is advisable to first check the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat for continuity prior to replacing the defrost control board.
  2. Main control boardA possible cause for a refrigerator not defrosting, especially on more modern units, is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time, and essentially acts in place of the defrost timer. The control board can be tested using an ohm meter for functionality and will need to be replaced if bad.
  3. Defrost timerIf the refrigerator is not defrosting the timer could be malfunctioning. Numerous times throughout the day the defrost timer should cycle the defrost heater on as a means to melt frost buildup on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If this timer does not cycle on, then it may be faulty and require replacement.
  4. Defrost heater assemblyIf your refrigerator is not defrosting accurately this could be an indication that your defrost heater assembly has failed. This could cause the frost to accrue on the evaporator coils, eventually blocking the airflow resulting in the unit not cooling properly. The defrost heater assembly can be monitored for continuity using an ohm meter and will need to replaced if there is none present.
  5. Defrost thermostatAnother cause of your refrigerator not defrosting is a faulty defrost thermostat. A requirement for the defrost heater to activate to melt away frost on the evaporator coils is a functional defrost thermostat. The defrost thermostat senses the temperature of the evaporator coils and initiates the thawing process by activating the defrost heater. If the thermostat is faulty, it will not sense the lowering temperature of the coils and will not turn on the heater, resulting in an advanced frost build-up. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity by using an ohm meter; if there is no continuity the damaged part will need to be replaced.
  6. Defrost sensor with fuseAnother possible cause of a refrigerator that does not defrost properly is a defrost sensor with a fuse. If the defrost sensor fails, the fuse acts as a one-time-only fail safe for the sensor -- if the sensor does not shut off the defrost heater, the fuse will blow when the set temperature is reached. This safety precaution is to keep excessive harm from your unit by the heater and is a one-time use, resulting in the replacement of the entire defrost sensor.

Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/refrigerator-repair-help.html#9#ixzz2aX5nUL00
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Jul 30, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Center Column is getting hot


Generally that means your auto defroster system is defective. It could be a simple switch/sensor. See if you can find a switch to turn off the AUTO DEFROSTER and see if that solves it. If it does, then you have a sensor problem. If it does not, then you might have a short in the system and it would be advisable to have a certified technican look at your unit. If it is a short and it is in the walls, then you are probably S.O.L and might have to disable the defroster and live with it and just be required to manually defrost your refer unit it truly dies. Reason being, if it is in the walls, it is cost prohibative to open the walls and repair a refers wiring, tubes and other components in the foam and such. Sorry for the tough news. Lets hope the techincan you have come out finds a cheap easy fix for you.

Kindly,

Dec 10, 2009 | Whirlpool GC5SHEXN Side by Side...

1 Answer

Leaks water inside the refrigirator part. It ices and eventually leaks to the bottom part! We keep the fridge at a normal temperature! 38degrees. please help! is there a recall to solve the problem!


The unit has an automatic defrost system that defrosts the fridge automatically when frost develops or when certain conditions are met.
  1. Defrosting starts when the compressor running time reaches 4 hours after a power outage or after the unit is turned on for the first time.
  2. Defrosting starts each time the compressor running time reaches 7 hours.
  3. Defrosting stops if the sensor temperature reaches 46.4°F(8°C) or more. If the sensor doesn’t reach 46.4°F(8°C) in
    2 hours, the defrost mode is malfunctioning.
  4. Defrosting will not function if its sensor is defective or wires are cut or short circuited.
If your unit defrosts frequently even when the conditions above are not met, you have a malfunctioning sensor. You may have to ask the help of a qualified technician to disassemble and:
  1. Check the connections of the sensor to the control board.
  2. Inspect the wires for short or cut wire.
  3. Push the reset button on the main board.
  4. Replace the sensor control assembly.

Nov 04, 2009 | LG LRFD22850ST French Door 22.4 Cu. Ft....

2 Answers

Freezer side stops defrosting.


has the defrost timer been replaced? if not, that'd be the next step. there are only a few parts in that line: the power, the sensor, the timer, and the heating element. also, if the condesate drain is plugged, water stays pooled under the coils and freezes again.

Aug 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Er IF code


IF is the Ice Fan failure code.  The fan that sends cold air to the ice maker is frozen.  Unplugging and defrosting does not solve the problem.  Mine was fixed as a warranty item when I complained to LG since I had a similar problem earlier with the refrigerator fan within the warranty period.  The fix consists of replacing the ice maker fan and housing (the new housing has a drain hole to prevent freeze-up), replacing the freezer duct housing (again with design improvements), and a new control board (presumably with new defrost programming).

Jun 05, 2009 | LG LRFC25750 Refrigerator French Door

1 Answer

Frigde wont get cold but freezer does.


I am an authorized Samsung service center, and I have dealt with this ongoing design problem for years. The problem occurs when the unit comes out of the defrost cycle, not all of the frost has been removed by the defrost element and an ice bridge occurs at the top and bottom evaporator coil. There are sensors that send readings back to the main PCB during and after this cycle, They have to be replaced along with adding heat transfer clips for better frost meltage and air circulation.
Order the following parts through Samsung:: Fixer # DA61-03585A, Plate # DA61-03502A, Thermal Bi-metal # DA47-10160H, Sensor # DA32-00006W. Have these parts installed by a professional appliance repair company.
I hope this will fix your dilemma, Ward Appliance Repair.

Dec 29, 2008 | Samsung RS2630SH Side by Side Refrigerator

5 Answers

Samsung Refrigerator


This unit has a history of problems on the refrigerator side. the basic reset is press and hold down the 2 middle buttons on the freezer at the same time. As a general rule the number one problem is in the mother board. usually you can replace it and everything will work.
David

Dec 22, 2007 | Samsung RS2534 Side by Side Refrigerator

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