DD603 Motor Seized+ - Posted a Couple Days ago No Response Yet
I'm not sure if I'm having multiple failures or just one. Here's how it started, while the bottom drawer is running it seems to be backing up into the top. When I try to run the top drawer it fails after about 2-3 minutes and I get error code F2 (I believe). I hand drained all the water out of the top this morning and dried the top out. On a hunch while the bottom drawer was running I left the top one ajar, no water accumulated in the top. The other thing I've noticed is that the center piece (bright blue) seems to be ceased (sp?)up. So, I'm not sure if this is all related or I have multiple failures. But honestly, I don't know what's going on at all. This seems to be my second major failure, 1st was that I had to replace the mechanism for the seals about 6 months back. I can't afford to keep maintaining this thing....
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Before we talk about water not draining away, can you confirm if the wash arms rotate during the wash cycle. The rotor works as a wash pump and drain pump depending on which cycle it is in.
If F2 keeps coming then it is also likely there is some debris in the rotor cavity which is grinding on the rotor. But one needs to be sure if F2 is coming up only in drain cycle or is it already on during wash cycle.
You may want to check up if the water collects in the bottom drawer when the top drawer is in wash cycle (ie, taking water from the inlet) or during the drain cycle when it is draining water out. Leave the bottom drawer open and check while the top drawer is running.
LE is a motor error. Possible Causes: Wiring connections, Impeller is locked, Rotor is locked, and or the Blade is locked. Remedy: Repair the wiring issue, Remove the item stopping the turning of the motor/rotor/blade, Replace the sump assembly, or Replace the main Power Control Board. If your motor was making in knocking sound before this error, then your issue is probably the motor sump assembly.Just replace the sump assembly and your problem is resolved.You can get these from EBAY for about $105 with free shipping. Good luck.
most likely you have a bad motor when replacing the motor ihave found it is cheaper to get the pump with the motor attached where as they charge you more money for just the motor or the pump seprately try allbrands appliance parts they seem to be cheaper
The LCD going blank could mean a couple of things.
If the dishwasher is still working then most likely it is the LCD panel that is faulty. But if the dishwasher is not working, that is, on pressing the start button you get no response, then the controller may be faulty or if you are lucky - the power fuse is blown.
The part number for LCD for your model is
526203P DISP LCD MERCURY 525 P3. Can't say what the cost is specific to your locality but should be around the us$100 mark.
Not sure if you want to replace this yourself. If you are not familiar with this sort of thing then best to get a technician. You will have to be careful with the connector pin locations when reinstalling the LCD panel. Also remember to turn the power off when working on the unit.
Checked that the motor was not seized by inserting slotted screwdriver through hole at back of machine to engage in slotted end of motor to spin up water circulating motor. Motor was not seized, so that was not the problem. Then took bottom off machine and on inspection found that the start capacitor which is bolted to side of motor was bulging and discoloured wher the terminals are. Replaced Start capacitor ( Less than £10.00) and machine motor started up. Machine behaved irratically at first, flashing lights etc.but got it to reset by switching on and off a couple of times, ran machine through cycle, now working ok.
I started having this problem, blinking green light, three days ago with my Kenmore QG3 and finally was tired of not being able to use my dishwasher. I've had it for three years with no problems until 3 days ago. You solution, use of commands, really helped and no money wasted on tech assistance. Thanks again!!