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You can put the wires back together by twisting stripped ends together and sealing the repaired spot with "Heat shrink tubing". Most hardware stores carry the tubing (or can help you to find some). Put the tubing on one of the ends, twist them together good and tight, bend the wire flat against either wire, move the tubing down over it and heat with a lighter to shrink it. Get the right size so it shrinks tight for a good seal. Make it long enough to extend an inch or so past the twisted wires on both sides. If the wiring can't be repaired for some reason, an exact replacement would need to come the manufacturer. If regular lamp cord will work, the hardware store should have that too. If you need to pull a new wire through the insulation, let me know. I can give you a tip or two to make it easier. Good luck.
The reed valve in the compressor has failed, or the dryer unit is bloked. if you can access the rear of the freezer, with power off, tap the compressor gently with a solid object (hammer), then start the unit, also, if you see the copper tubes near the compressor, you will notice one of the tubes feeds into a copper barrel object about 3-4 inches long, it will have a fine copper tube comming out at the other end about 3mm thick, with the unit on, tap this object with the back of a bread and butter knife a few times with about the same force as to open a nut ( A good tap). Should do the trick if the unit is repairable.
Hope that helps, dont forget to vote and get back to me for further solutions if this fails..Russ
Hello, get a short piece of electrical wire and strip the insulation off. put a bend in one end and then hang it over the heater directly above the drain making sure the wire runs into the drain about an inch. the heat from the heater will make sure the drain stays clear. Hope this helps. Mike
the drain pipe you cleaned out has a p-trap that holds water. after awhile this trap will build up sludge and possibly freeze up. i recomend defrosting the drain pan again and try some way to forcfully flush hot water thru the drain. I use a turkey baster filled with water to do this. if the drain continues to freeze you may need to install a heat trap to keep drain from freezing.
a heat trap is just a piece of 10-12 guage solid copper wire with about 3 inches in the drain and the other end wrapped around the defrost heater which is the BLACK rod attached to the bottom of the evaporator coil in the freezer compartment. if you need any further assistance just let me know Peyton
check light inside .on? you got power. check compressor in back on? if no then you probably have a bad stat. open door and look inside for numbered dial. turn max hot to max cold back and forth. if compressor comes on you need a new stat probably. remember only a stat a compressor on these units. if its hot stat should send power to compressor. if power is arriving at compressor and not running then start relay and or start cap are probably bad. but if compressor is running and still no cool then your probably out of freon. unfortunitly these boxes are made with steel tubing in the cabinets. when you move them lots of times the tubing rusts and ruptures. then your all done. new freezer time. they are sealed to the point there are not even a place to apply gages to check charge. you can gently remove power and then stat and jump thermomstat to take it out of equation and if compressor runs you need a new stat. constant power comes in one side of the stat and when the sensing tube is heated it closes the points to the outlet side and puts power to the compressor. there may also be a ground wire usually green be sure to observe which two are power in and power out. usually side by side. good luck
hi thanks for the question the drain hose leading from the freezer is clogged up remove the ice from the bottom pull fridge from wall find small drain tube clean the tube now it will drain into tray vacuum out while your there thanks the appliance doc
First is freeze up. This happens when too much humidity gets into the unit from the air and forms ice on the coils. Defrost the unit using warm air or leave it open and off for two days.
Problems that cause this: high humidity, 'window shopping', unit not left closed or bad gasket. If the gasket looks damaged, it will need to be replaced. Gaskets that have accumulated dirt don't seal. Use a mild cleaner to fix this. If you have doubts about an area where the seal is questionable...use a sheet of paper about 2-3 inches wide, close the door and pull it through. No resistance indicates a poor seal.
Make sure you clean out the condenser...the coils where the heat is rejected by the unit.
It is possible that you have refrigerant or defrost timer issues. To check for low refrigerant, start the unit after defrosting it. Note that the larger pipe attached to the big black thing....the compressor...will start to frost. It should then start to form ice while the unit is running...about 5 minutes. If the frost stays and the pipe is not REALLY cold, you have a problem with refrigerant. Sealed units are warranted for 5 years. Defrost timer issues are best left to a tech.
if there is air getting into the freezer because the door is not sealing properly the unit will run because it is sensing it is not cold enough inside. your unit releses the heat from the refrigerant through copper tubing that runs through the cabinet, and thats why it is hot. you need to level the unit make sure the door is sealing on the top bottom and both sides ansd then the freezer will work properly and be able to shut off after it has come down to the proper temp.