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An expert who has answered 20 questions.
Re: Keep blowing fuses
Check for shorts to ground in the speaker wiring, the speakers themselves, total Impedance, especially woofers. Proper size power and ground wire and all connections. Use a Ohmmeter or find a friend with one that knows how to use it, If all else fails RMA . Good luck, sumthin
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fuses blow from over current( dead short) they are rated at lower than what is required so that the wire doesn't burn
If you keep putting in bigger fuses without fixing the dead short, eventually the wire will melt the plastic insulation off and the vehicle will burn
check the wiring as the red wire may be a positive power in wire and if you have it on the negative terminal that would amount to a dead short and that would blow the fuse
consider changing the yellow from the + terminal and putting the red wire there and if it stops blowing fuses the put the yellow wire on to the - ve
if that means that the unit doesn't work then touch it back on the + terminal
if that works the solder it there
A blown fuse is more likely. Most cars have two fuses in the vehicle fuse box that can supply power to the stereo, and there's another fuse built into the back of the stereo unit itself. It's not uncommon for one or more of these fuses to blow when the battery is changed.
If you keep blowing the brake fuse than you have a short in the system. Unplug the brake switch. Install a new fuse. If it did not blow than the problem is after the brake switch. Next unplug the turn signal switch, then plug the stop light switch back in and press the brake pedal. Did the fuse blow. If not than the wiring is good in between the two switches. With the turn signal switch disconnected use a jumper wire in between the light green wire (power from the brake switch) and the orange with light blue wire (power to the right brake lamp). If the fuse blows than there is a short in the right side brake circuit between the plug in and the rear socket assembly. If the fuse does not blow than jump from the light green wire to the Light green with orange wire (power to the left brake lamp). If the fuse blows than the problem is in the left hand brake wiring circuit.
It sounds like just the one problem. Your tails and the dash illumination lights are all on the one circuit that the fuse keeps blowing. Don't get confused thinking of another main fuse, just focus on this one circuit..
It is very seldom that a short develops at the fuse box, it certainly can happen from corrosion or loose terminals, but it is rare. More likely is a bad wire just like the one you found near the exhaust. Somewhere very likely a wire has had insulation stripped or scraped off, soon as the wire touches metal it will blow the fuse. Were any other wires damaged in that harness for the speed sensor? Or do you see any wires hanging down from under the truck, anywhere going back to the tail lights?
If you did the stereo yourself, were any wires cut going to the dash? I doubt this as the wire for the dash lights would be in a wiring harness that is like a bundle from under the dash up to the instrument cluster. You just have to keep looking for the short.
If your stereo has a fuse it will be in line with the hot wire (usually a red and/or yellow). The neutral is usually the black wire.
Unless you crossed the neutral wire by cutting it, you probably didn't blow a fuse. Plugging in a wiring harness will not blow the fuse. You can go to an ie. Autozone store and buy a car fuse tester or use a volt ohm meter to check your fuses. With the volt ohm meter set to dc volts you could check the harness by touching the probes to the wires listed above where you will be looking for a 12 volt reading.
Don't forget to check the on/off button with the key turned partway on or in the position that displays the parking and interior lights.