Kenmore automatic washer direct drive: slippy clutch
The clutch is to slow and i can stop it easely.
I opened the bottom, and the clutch pads are used, but there was oily and black dirt in.
I pull out , motor, gearcase, there is ok
I want to pull out the drive tube but dont again the screw is stick. i just make a spanner tool (i'm machinist) i try tonight.
I suppose oil from the base tube by oil seal.
If not, what do you think ?
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If this is occurring mostly on heavier loads your clutch may be slipping. If you take a flathead screwdriver and push down the lid switch so the washer will spin with the lid up, grab the inside of the drum. If you can easily stop the drum its most likely a bad clutch. If you tip the washer back and see oil underneath then its probably your transmission leaking oil onto the the clutch causing it to slip (in which case you need transmission and clutch assy). If you see oil I would probably not bother calling a tech it would be a pretty expensive repair.
IF the problem is with the clutch only it may be worth repairing but to replace the clutch you will have to remove the pump, motor, transmission, and the clutch mounts on top. The other less common possibility could be a bad drive block under the inner tub. hope this helps. _MJ_
If the springs and pads are fine, I'd consider looking into the "agitator cam" in the transmission.
If the cam doesn't lift the agitator gear high enough during the spin cycle, (as we had) you would get a major vibration.
See the section in the Whirlpool manual on how the transmission works and the agitator cam.
We had to replace ours and the vibration stopped.
Only if you need to, look at the following.
Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.
I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.
Pull the transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
you may need to replace the direct drive coupling. this part consists of 3 pieces, an inner rubber piece sandwiched between to nylon pieces. it is situated on the shaft of the motor. it is a wearable part and also an inexpensive part to replace. if you are handy you can do this yourself. hope this is a help to you.
Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.
If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.
If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.
Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.
The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.
The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.
The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.
Yes, you could have gotten some oil or lube on the clutch assy. If this doesn't clear up within a few cycles, then there is more wrong but I feel that this will clear up. What is happening is as the clutch engages, the oil/lube on the clutch pads makes this slip a bit and then it catches as it goes on. I hate to have you do all that again to clean the pads but if it doesn't clear up in a number of cycles, then you may have to. As I said, I believe this will clear up in time :)
this is joyce
The belt is usually found on the bottom or the back, but if you want the sceamatic on your machine go to kenmore.com and put in your model# and download your manuel and find out what you are looking for.
theirs a brake that slows the tub down .Ive fixed 2 thousand off these washers and its not a normal problem.as a repair man i would remove traine,inspect clutch,brake and spanner nut and drive block area